Regular nail trims are a necessary part of care for most dogs and cats. However, trimming a pet’s nails isn’t always quick or easy. For animals with arthritis or other medical conditions, handling the paws might be painful. And many animals resist paw handling because nail trims have been scary or painful for them in the past.
 
Because trimming nails at home can be difficult for pet owners, some pets have their nails trimmed at the veterinary clinic, either as a stand-alone appointment or while they are at the clinic for another reason. Animals might also need nail care at a veterinary clinic because of a medical problem like a torn nail or an overgrown nail that has punctured the paw pad. Some animals have no problem with nail trims at the veterinary clinic (or anywhere else). But for animals with clinic anxiety, a nail trim can add to their stress.
 
Trimming pets’ nails can cause problems for people too. Consider these findings of a survey of veterinary clinic staff in Australia:

• About 80% of respondents had been injured while trimming pets’ nails.
• Most dogs and cats showed signs of fear, anxiety, and stress during nail trims.
• Some respondents felt pressure to continue trimming nails even when the pet didn’t need a nail trim or showed severe signs of stress.

 
Making Nail Trims Easier and Safer
For Pets That Don’t Resist Paw Handling
If your pet doesn’t resist nail trims, that is absolutely great and your goal is to keep it that way. Trimming nails at home—for a cooperative pet who accepts nail trims readily—is easier, less stressful, and less expensive than having it done elsewhere.
 
For pets that are not afraid of paw handling, here are some things you can do at home:

• Teach your pet to build positive associations with paw handling and nail trims. Here’s an article on the Veterinary Partner website with detailed instructions for dogs (the same technique can be used for cats): Conditioning Your Dog to Nail Trims
• Never push your pet beyond their comfort zone while you’re teaching them to like nail trims. If your pet pulls away or resists, stop and back up to an earlier training step.
• If trimming nails isn’t easy for you, consider training your dog to use a scratch board to file down nails on the front paws (dewclaws will still need to be trimmed).
• Some pets do well with motorized rotary nail trimmers like the Dremel tool. Others dislike the noise or sensation of these tools. Go slowly, train your pet to build positive associations with the tool, and don’t use it if your pet resists.

 
For Pets That Resist Paw Handling
For pets that are afraid of paw handling and nail trims, talk to your veterinarian about medication options. Scratch boards might also work for dogs that resist nail trims. Fear of nail care is a learned response that is very difficult to un-teach. Once an animal has associated nail trims with pain, that animal might always be afraid of paw handling. The fear response becomes stronger over time with repeated attempts to trim the nails. Antianxiety and sedative medications are humane, kind options for pets who fight nail trims because of fear and stress.
 
These types of medications are used for nail trims:

• Previsit antianxiety medications: These medications are given at home before a clinic visit. They are typically given to the pet a couple of hours before the appointment so they can take effect by the time the pet gets in the car. The goal of these medications is to reduce anxiety, not cause sedation, but some can cause temporary mild sedation or wobbliness as a side effect.
• Sedatives given at the clinic: These medications are usually injections and are given to ease a pet into drowsiness or light sleep. Not all pets need injectable sedatives, but these medications are extremely helpful for pets whose fear isn’t reduced just with gentle handling and antianxiety medications.
• General anesthesia: This level of anesthesia is used for surgical and dental procedures that require an animal to be fully unconscious. At some clinics, pets’ nails are routinely trimmed while they are undergoing general anesthesia for another procedure.

 
Sources

• Chen A, Hall E, Bennington LN, McGowan C, Quain A. “One of the hardest things I have to do in the clinic”: a survey of veterinary team members’ knowledge, attitudes, and practices regarding nail clipping. Vet Sci. 2026;13(2):115. doi:10.3390/vetsci13020115 https://www.mdpi.com/2306-7381/13/2/115
• Yuschak S. Conditioning your dog to nail trims. Veterinary Partner. July 27, 2022. Accessed September 17, 2026. https://veterinarypartner.vin.com/default.aspx?pid=19239&id=11052217

Oral tumors are common in dogs and cats. These growths can occur anywhere in the mouth, including the gums, tongue, inner cheek, roof of the mouth, or back of the throat. In dogs, some oral tumors are benign and others are malignant. In cats, most oral tumors are malignant.
 
Malignant oral tumors are very serious and typically have a poor prognosis. The earlier these tumors are found, the easier they are to treat and the better the outcome. Unfortunately, oral tumors are often advanced by the time they’re detected.
 
Signs
Some oral tumors are in a location that’s easy to see while the animal is awake. Others are only found with a full-mouth examination when the animal is under anesthesia, often during a routine dental procedure.
 
These are some of the signs of oral tumors:

• Lump in the mouth or on the lips
• Bad breath
• Excessive drooling
• Difficulty eating or drinking
• Weight loss
• Bleeding from the gums or other part of the mouth
• Pawing at the mouth
• Difficulty opening the mouth
• Swelling or asymmetry of the face
• Tooth loss

 
Benign Tumors (Not Cancer)
Dogs can develop various benign oral tumors. The most common types are acanthomatous ameloblastoma and peripheral odontogenic fibroma. These tumors begin as small pink growths at the gumline next to a tooth. They often enlarge if they’re not removed, and some types invade deeper tissues and destroy the bone around the tooth. Even though these tumors can cause pain and tooth loss, they are considered benign because they don’t spread to other parts of the body.
 
Benign oral tumors are uncommon in cats. A growth in a cat’s mouth is probably malignant.
 
Malignant Tumors (Cancer)
Malignant Melanoma
Malignant melanoma is the most common malignant oral tumor in dogs and is rare in cats. These tumors can be either pigmented (black or brown) or nonpigmented (pink). This aggressive cancer grows quickly and spreads to nearby lymph nodes and more distant parts of the body. In most dogs, malignant melanoma has already spread, or metastasized, by the time it’s diagnosed. The prognosis depends on whether the cancer is detected and treated before it has metastasized.
 
Squamous Cell Carcinoma
Squamous cell carcinoma is the most common oral tumor in cats and the second most common malignant oral tumor in dogs. These tumors are most often located on the gums, the underside of the tongue, or the tonsils but can occur anywhere in the mouth. The tumors are usually not detected until they’re too large to be removed surgically. Squamous cell carcinoma destroys the underlying bone and spreads to nearby lymph nodes. Squamous cell carcinoma has a poor prognosis unless it can be completely removed while the tumor is still small, which is not the case for most cats.
 
Fibrosarcoma
Oral fibrosarcoma is more common in dogs than in cats. This type of cancer destroys nearby tissues but is less likely to metastasize. The prognosis depends on how large and destructive the cancer has become by the time it’s found.
 
Others
Many other cancers can affect dogs’ and cats’ mouths. Some examples are osteosarcoma, mast cell tumor, lymphosarcoma, peripheral nerve sheath tumor, and hemangiosarcoma.
 
Diagnosis
Diagnosis requires tumor biopsy with the patient under anesthesia or deep sedation. Imaging (radiography or computed tomography) is needed to see how deeply the tumor has invaded the surrounding tissues; this is the case for both benign and malignant tumors. Basic laboratory workup (bloodwork and possibly urinalysis) is used to assess the patient’s overall health, especially before anesthesia. Patients with malignant tumors might also undergo tumor staging, which can include more extensive bloodwork and imaging of the chest and abdomen.
 
Treatment
The most effective treatment, when possible, is surgical removal of the tumor and a wide margin of surrounding tissue. “Wide margin” often means removing all or part of the jawbone. Radiation therapy is also used for some patients. Chemotherapy isn’t effective for many kinds of malignant oral tumors. Immunotherapy (a melanoma vaccine) is available for dogs with oral melanoma.

Human outbreaks of diarrhea caused by cyclosporiasis have been reported across the United States this summer. Hundreds of cases have been reported in North Carolina. Most of these have been in Wake County, but some have also been reported in Mecklenburg County.
 
Cyclosporiasis is a human disease. This disease doesn’t affect dogs and cats, although similar intestinal infections cause diarrhea and vomiting in animals.
 
No cases of cyclosporiasis in humans have been linked to animal transmission. Still, it’s best to practice good hand hygiene and dispose of animal waste properly; other parasites that are common in animals can infect people.
 
Cause
Cyclosporiasis is caused by infection with Cyclospora cayetanensis, a protozoan parasite. Cyclospora are types of coccidia, so they’re related to the coccidia that infect dogs, cats, and other animals. Coccidia are host specific: each species of coccidia typically infects only one host species. Humans are the host species for C cayetanensis.
 
How Cyclosporiasis Spreads
Cyclosporiasis spreads through contaminated food and water. Cyclospora organisms that are passed in human feces enter the environment, where they develop into a form that can infect other people. The organisms aren’t spread directly from person to person; they need a week or two in the environment to become infectious.
 
The most common sources of infection are fresh vegetables and fruits. We don’t yet know all of the sources of this summer’s outbreaks. Iceberg lettuce from one supplier has been recalled so far.
 
Signs in People

• No signs (some people carry and spread C cayetanensis without getting sick)
• Watery diarrhea
• Loss of appetite
• Weight loss
• Stomach pain
• Bloating and gas
• Nausea
• Fatigue
• Vomiting
• Headache
• Fever

 
Treatment and Prevention
Like coccidia infections in animals, cyclosporiasis in people is treated with antibiotics. In some people, the illness improves without treatment.
 
The US Food and Drug Administration recommends these steps:

• Watch for announcements about recalled foods and foods to avoid.
• Wash hands with soap and warm water before and after handling food.
• Rinse fresh produce under running water.
• Peel away and discard outer layers of fruits and vegetables.
• Be aware that prewashed and precut produce might still be contaminated.
• Cook produce that can be cooked to at least 158 °F.
• Clean cutting surfaces, countertops, and utensils with hot soapy water.
• Contact your health care professional if you get sick, especially if you have diarrhea that lasts longer than three days.

 
Precautions With Pets
Seek veterinary care if your pet has diarrhea that lasts longer than a couple of days or if your pet has other signs like vomiting, belly pain, or loss of appetite. Dogs and cats are very unlikely to be infected with C cayetanensis. Pets that eat fresh produce—guinea pigs, other rodents, and reptiles, for example—are also not host species for this parasite and have not been found to be at risk of infection. However, lots of other infections cause diarrhea in animals.
 
Animals have not been shown to transmit cyclosporiasis to people. Cyclospora organisms have been detected in the feces of dogs that swallowed the organisms, but whether these organisms can actually infect people is unclear. Animals carry many other infectious organisms that can make people sick, so use general precautions: wash hands before eating and after handling animals or their feces, pick up your dog’s stool and dispose of it properly, disinfect surfaces in contact with animal feces, and give your pets the parasite prevention products that your veterinarian recommends.
 
For More Information

• Cyclospora (FDA): https://www.fda.gov/food/foodborne-pathogens/cyclospora
• Cyclosporiasis in North Carolina (NCDHHS): https://www.dph.ncdhhs.gov/blog/2026/07/14/cyclosporiasis-north-carolina-what-it-and-how-stay-safe

 
Image source: https://wwwn.cdc.gov/phil/Details.aspx?pid=7827

New World screwworm causes serious and sometimes fatal disease in animals infested with this parasite. The animals most often affected are livestock (especially cattle), horses, wildlife, and dogs, although all mammals and birds can be infested. The disease is rare in humans.
 
New cases have recently been identified in Texas and New Mexico, decades after the parasite was eradicated from the United States. The overall risk to animals and people in the United States is still very low. No cases have been found on the East Coast as of the date of this post.
 
What Screwworm Is
New World screwworm is not a worm. It is the larvae (maggots) of the fly Cochliomyia hominivorax. The flies lay eggs on an animal, usually in open wounds or around natural body openings. The larvae that hatch from the eggs feed on the animal’s tissue, causing painful and potentially life-threatening wounds.
 
Other kinds of flies also lay eggs that hatch into maggots and feed on animal tissue. The difference between New World screwworm and the others is that New World screwworm feeds on living tissue. Other maggots feed on dead and decomposing tissue, performing nature’s cleanup work.
 
How New World Screwworm Spreads
This is not a contagious disease; an infested animal doesn’t spread the parasite directly to another animal. Animals become infested when C hominivorax flies lay eggs on their body. This parasite does not contaminate the food supply. New World screwworm spreads geographically when the flies migrate or when the eggs or larvae are carried to new areas.
 
New World screwworm flies live in warm, humid regions. These flies were once found throughout the southern United States, Mexico, and Central America. They were eradicated in these areas by international collaboration to prevent the movement of infested animals and to introduce sterile flies that prevent fly reproduction. The flies still live in some Caribbean islands and parts of South America, and they have been moving northward over the past few years.
 
Signs of Screwworm Infestation

• Maggots or masses of small white eggs in wounds, skin folds, or body openings like nose, ears, genitalia, and navel of newborn animals
• Wounds with a foul odor of decay
• Wounds that become larger or deeper over time
• Signs of pain, such as loss of appetite, loss of energy, or avoiding contact with people or other animals

 
Treatment
New World screwworm is a reportable disease, meaning that veterinarians must report suspected cases so the disease can be tracked. Treatment involves removing all visible eggs and larvae, treating the bacterial infection associated with the wound, and treating the animal’s general illness (which can be serious in animals with severe infestations).
 
For dogs and cats, some prescription antiparasite products are very effective for treating New World screwworm infestation. The US Food and Drug Administration has issued either conditional approval or emergency use authorization for three Credelio products (containing lotilaner) and two Nexgard products (containing afoxolaner) for New World screwworm treatment in dogs and cats. Other products are likely to be effective and might also receive authorization later on.
 
What Pet Owners Should Do

• The risk to pet dogs, cats, ferrets, birds, and other warm-blooded animals is currently very low in North Carolina.
• Be aware of the possible risk, especially if your pets have recently traveled to areas affected by New World screwworm.
• Keep your pets on the parasite prevention product that your veterinarian recommends all year round.
• Check your pets regularly for wounds.
• If you think your pet might have maggots or fly eggs, contact your veterinarian before you try to treat the infestation yourself. If it’s New World screwworm, it must be reported to state and federal agencies.

 
For Updates and More Information

• Nationwide: screwworm.gov (US Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service)
• North Carolina: https://cvm.ncsu.edu/news/new-world-screwworm-in-the-u-s-what-it-means-for-north-carolina/ (NC State University)

 
Image source: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/cattle/ticks/screwworm/new-world-screwworm-photo-gallery

Ticks in North Carolina are active all year round, but their activity increases dramatically in the spring and summer. Ticks spread bacteria and viruses (pathogens) that cause serious and sometimes fatal diseases in dogs, cats, and humans.
 
Ticks live mostly in tall grass, woodlands, undergrowth, groundcover plants, and secluded cracks and crevices. Some tick species infest houses.
 
Ticks that are ready for a blood meal move to the tip of a grass blade or other vegetation and wait for a host animal to come along. They climb onto an animal when it brushes past (ticks don’t fly or jump).
 
Ticks attach to an animal by clamping their mouthparts to the skin. Ticks spread pathogens when they take a blood meal. A tick has to be attached for some time before it can spread a pathogen. The amount of time depends on the tick species and the pathogen.
 
North Carolina Ticks
The geographic ranges of some tick species have expanded because of changing environmental conditions and the movement of host species like deer. Different tick species carry different pathogens, so tick-borne diseases that used to be more common in other parts of the country—like Lyme disease—are now common in North Carolina too.
 
Identifying a tick’s species can help narrow down the pathogens the tick might be carrying. These are some of the tick species that live in North Carolina:

• American dog tick
• Asian longhorned tick
• Blacklegged (deer) tick
• Brown dog tick
• Gulf Coast tick
• Lone star tick

 
You don’t need to be able to tell tick species apart. But if you’re interested, here’s the link to NC State’s guide to ticks of North Carolina: https://eit-wagpress-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/media/documents/NC_Tick_Guide_v1.0_April_14_2023.pdf
 
Tick-Borne Diseases of Dogs and Cats
In dogs and cats, many tick-borne infectious diseases cause similar signs: loss of appetite, decreased energy, fever, and sometimes swollen lymph nodes and muscle or joint pain. Signs of illness appear days or weeks after a tick bite. These are some of the tick-associated diseases that affect dogs and cats in North Carolina.
 
Ehrlichiosis and Anaplasmosis
The bacteria that cause ehrlichiosis and anaplasmosis are spread by American dog ticks, blacklegged ticks, brown dog ticks, and lone star ticks. Ticks can transmit Ehrlichia bacteria within 3 to 6 hours after attachment.
 
Lyme Disease
Lyme disease is caused by infection with Borrelia burgdorferi bacteria. Blacklegged ticks transmit Borrelia 24 to 48 hours after taking a blood meal.
 
Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and Other Rickettsial Diseases
American dog ticks, brown dog ticks, Gulf Coast ticks, and lone star ticks spread Rickettsia bacteria, which cause Rocky Mountain spotted fever and other diseases. Transmission is thought to happen 5 to 20 hours after tick attachment.
 
Tick Paralysis
Tick paralysis is caused by a reaction to a neurotoxin produced by American dog ticks, blacklegged ticks, and possibly other tick species. Affected animals have a stumbling gait that progresses to inability to move. Without treatment, this condition can be fatal. It’s treated by removing or killing all ticks on the animal.
 
Prevention
Limiting Exposure
Keep your pets away from tall grass and underbrush. When walking or hiking, keep your dog on a leash and on the path. At home, remove groundcover plants from areas your pets can access and install a border of gravel or mulch between grass and woods. Wild animals are tick carriers, so remove vegetation and food sources that attract deer and other wildlife. Thoroughly check your pets for ticks after they’ve been in a tick area. Look through the entire coat, including inside the ears, between the toes and paw pads, under the front legs (armpits), between the back legs, and under the tail.
 
Tick Preventive Products
Effective tick preventives are available by prescription from your veterinarian and should be used all year round. Prescription products for dogs and cats are safe, but some products are better choices than others for an individual animal, so discuss the options with your veterinarian. Some products are oral (flavored chews) and others are topical (drops placed on the skin).
 
Prescription tick preventives kill ticks soon after they attach, before they’ve had a chance to transmit pathogens. Animals taking these products are protected from many tick-borne diseases but can still carry live unattached ticks in their fur. These unattached ticks can drop off in the house or move to another animal (or you), so check your pets for ticks even if they are taking a prescription product.
 
Repellents
Talk to your veterinarian about safe tick repellents if you are seeing live unattached ticks in your pet’s fur and your pet is already taking a prescription product. Repellents are available without prescription, but some are safer and work better than others. Cats are very sensitive to pyrethrins and can have severe reactions to products labeled for dogs. Read product labels carefully. Never use a product meant to treat clothing or equipment on an animal, and never use a dog product on a cat.
 
Removing Ticks
If a tick is attached to your pet, remove it with tweezers, a tick removal tool, or your fingernails protected by disposable gloves. Grasp the tick’s head at the skin and gently pull it away from the skin until the entire head comes out. Clean the area with soap and water or rubbing alcohol.
 
Avoid squashing the tick so you’re not exposed to whatever pathogens the tick is carrying. Kill the tick by placing it in a vial of rubbing alcohol or in a ziplock baggie with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol. Note the date of the tick bite in case your pet shows any signs of illness days or weeks later. If you want to be thorough, label your tick vial or baggie with the date and keep it for several weeks in case the tick is needed for identification and testing later on.
 
Vaccination
A Lyme disease vaccine is available for dogs. This vaccine is considered a lifestyle vaccine, so ask your veterinarian whether your dog should receive it.
 
Sources

• Ticks. Companion Animal Parasite Council. Updated March 30, 2023. Accessed May 25, 2026. https://capcvet.org/guidelines/ticks/
• Bertone MA, Reiskind MH, Crawley SE, Watson DW. Common ticks of North Carolina: an identification guide. North Carolina State University. April 14, 2023. Accessed May 25, 2026. https://eit-wagpress-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/media/documents/NC_Tick_Guide_v1.0_April_14_2023.pdf

 
Image source: https://wwwn.cdc.gov/phil/Details.aspx?pid=7663

Cognitive dysfunction is fairly common in older dogs and cats. Similar to dementia and Alzheimer disease in people, cognitive dysfunction in dogs and cats is an age-related condition that affects the brain. The signs can be mistaken for normal aging changes and can overlap the signs of other common disorders. The earlier cognitive dysfunction is recognized, the earlier treatment can be started.
 
The causes of cognitive dysfunction aren’t fully known. Studies in dogs have shown some of the same neurological features, like β-amyloid accumulation and oxidative damage, that are found in people with Alzheimer disease. The only known (for now) risk factor in dogs and cats is age; animals with a diagnosis of cognitive dysfunction tend to be at least 8 years old. No particular breed or sex is known to have increased risk.
 
Signs
The signs of cognitive dysfunction are mostly behavioral. Over time, the behavior changes can affect the human-animal bond and become debilitating.

• Disorientation
• Anxiety
• Changes in social interactions: avoiding contact or seeking more contact than usual
• Changes in sleep-wake cycles: restlessness at night or sleeping more than usual during the day
• Loss of house training (dogs); urinating or defecating outside the litter box (cats)
• Loss of behavioral training
• Changes in activity level
• Changes in appetite

 
Other Possible Causes of the Signs
Lots of medical conditions that affect older animals cause the same signs as cognitive dysfunction and can also contribute to cognitive decline. Chronic pain from arthritis, dental disease, or other sources is very common in senior dogs and cats. Pain can lead to changes in interaction and activity levels, house soiling (because of mobility problems), and decreased food intake. Loss of vision, loss of hearing, metabolic diseases like kidney disease and thyroid disease, and neurologic diseases like brain tumors can also cause signs similar to those of cognitive dysfunction.
 
Diagnosis
No specific test for cognitive dysfunction is available, so the diagnosis is made by excluding other possible causes of the signs. The pet owner’s description of the behavioral changes is part of the diagnostic process, so behavior questionnaires and cognitive dysfunction rating scales are sometimes used. Many animals with cognitive dysfunction also have at least one of the other medical conditions that cause similar signs, which complicates diagnosis. Tests include thorough physical examination, blood tests, urinalysis, and possibly imaging studies of the chest, abdomen, and head (such as magnetic resonance imaging to look for brain lesions).
 
Treatment
Cognitive dysfunction can’t be cured, but early treatment can ease the symptoms and possibly slow the progression of the disease. Other disorders that contribute to the signs need to be addressed. Special diets and veterinary supplements (for example, antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids) help some animals. Environmental enrichment can also improve the signs. Medications depend on the individual animal’s needs; selegiline is labeled for use in dogs (not cats) with cognitive dysfunction. Many animals with cognitive dysfunction also benefit from antianxiety medication.
 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-small-white-dog-laying-on-top-of-a-couch-KCAlASmEbKY

The yellow pollen coating everything in Charlotte this week tells us that spring has finally arrived. For National Poison Prevention Week (the third week of March each year), here’s a short list of springtime pet hazards you should be aware of.
 
If your pet has been exposed to a possible toxin, contact a veterinary clinic or one of these pet poison resources:

• ASPCA Poison Control: (888) 426-4435, https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/aspca-poison-control
• Pet Poison Helpline: (855) 764-7661, https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/

 
Plants
Common springtime plants that are dangerous for dogs and cats include lilies, daffodils, tulips, azaleas, and rhododendrons. See the ASPCA Poison Control website for a full list of toxic and nontoxic plants: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/aspca-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants
 
Lilies
True lilies are extremely toxic to cats and should never be brought into a home with cats. Easter lilies, daylilies, tiger lilies, Asiatic lilies, Oriental lilies, stargazer lilies, and other plants in the Lilium and Hemerocallis genera cause kidney failure in cats. Ingestion of small amounts of any part of these plants, including pollen or water from the vase, can be fatal to a cat.
 
Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) and gloriosa or flame lily (Gloriosa superba) are highly toxic to both dogs and cats. Ingestion of lily of the valley causes heart rhythm abnormalities and possibly seizures, and ingestion of gloriosa lily causes multiple organ failure.
 
Some plants called lilies are much safer for cats and dogs. Calla lilies (Zantedeschia species), peace lilies (Spathiphyllum species), and Peruvian lilies (Alstroemeria species) can cause mouth irritation and stomach upset if ingested, but these plants are not highly toxic.
 
For more information about lilies, see No Lilies for Kitties on the Pet Poison Helpline website: https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/veterinarians/free-resources-clinic-clients/no-lilies-for-kitties/
 
Daffodils
Ingestion of daffodils, jonquils, paperwhites, and other plants in the Narcissus genus can cause vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, and heart rhythm abnormalities (depending on the amount swallowed) in dogs and cats. The bulb is the most toxic part of these plants.
 
Tulips
Tulip ingestion can cause vomiting, diarrhea, excessive drooling, and depression in dogs and cats. As with daffodils, the bulb is the most toxic part.
 
Azaleas and Rhododendrons
Azaleas and rhododendrons (Rhododendron species) contain a toxin that affects the function of the muscles, heart, and nerves. Dogs and cats that ingest these plants can develop vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression, loss of coordination, and possibly coma and death.
 
Fertilizers
Some fertilizers are dangerous if swallowed. Ingestion of blood meal can cause vomiting, diarrhea, severe pancreatitis, and iron toxicity (if the product is fortified with iron). Bone meal is tasty to dogs but can form a cement-like mass in the stomach that might require surgical removal. Some rose and plant fertilizers contain disulfoton and other organophosphates as pesticides. Organophosphate ingestion can cause seizures, trouble breathing, and death.
 
Spring Cleaning Products
Keep cleaning products, including “natural” products, out of reach of animals. Check product labels for warnings about use around animals, and follow label instructions for storage and use.
 
Undiluted bleach is (unsurprisingly) hazardous to animals; ingestion injures the mouth and esophagus. Very diluted bleach is safe to use as a cleaning solution—though not to be swallowed—if the cleaned object has been rinsed off afterward and the bleach odor has gone away.
 
Vinegar is not safe for animals to swallow but is safe for cleaning as long as the vinegar has been diluted with water and has been rinsed off the cleaned object. Enzyme-based cleaners can cause upset stomach if swallowed. Let objects cleaned with any of these solutions dry before animals have access to them.
 
Sources

• ASPCA Poison Control: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/aspca-poison-control
• Pet Poison Helpline: https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/

 
Image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/184594136@N08/50970877282/

Bad breath is very common in dogs and cats, but it’s not normal. Unpleasant mouth odor that lasts longer than a day or two warrants a visit to a veterinarian. Bad breath is often the first (and sometimes the only) clue that an animal has dental disease or another medical condition. “Breath fresheners” aren’t likely to work because they don’t treat the cause of the problem.
 
Dental Disease
Dental disease is by far the most common cause of bad breath in dogs and cats. Bacteria in the mouth produce plaque, a sticky biofilm that attaches to tooth surfaces. Within a few days the plaque hardens into tartar. Plaque can be removed by tooth brushing, but tartar removal requires professional cleaning with dental instruments.
 
Plaque also causes gingivitis, or inflammation of the gums. Gingivitis leads to periodontal disease, which affects the bone and other structures holding the teeth in place. Abscesses can form around the tooth roots. Periodontal disease is painful, but dogs and cats often don’t show signs of mouth pain that a human can easily detect.
 
The most obvious visible sign of dental disease is tartar. But animals—especially cats—can have serious periodontal disease without having very much tartar at all.
 
Watch for these signs of dental and periodontal disease in your pets:

• Bad breath: this might be the only sign you can detect at home
• Tartar (hard cream-colored or brown buildup on the teeth)
• Red gums
• Excessive drooling
• Loose or missing teeth
• Reluctance to eat or eating more slowly than usual
• Decreased activity level (general sign of pain in animals)

 
A complete dental procedure for a dog or cat requires general anesthesia; otherwise the procedure would be scary and uncomfortable for the animal. A comprehensive procedure includes oral radiographs, a complete oral examination, probing around the tooth roots, tooth scaling, and polishing to smooth out scratches left by scaling.
 
To prevent painful periodontal disease in your pets, don’t ignore early signs like bad breath. Brush your pet’s teeth regularly to remove plaque before it hardens into tartar. If your pet already has gingivitis or periodontal disease, brushing might be painful, so follow your veterinarian’s recommendations for home dental care. Schedule a dental procedure if your veterinarian recommends it.
 
Foreign Object in the Mouth
String or hair wrapped around teeth, food particles stuck between teeth, sticks wedged across the palate, and other foreign objects are relatively common causes of bad breath in animals. Sedation or anesthesia might be needed for safe removal. Objects lodged in the mouth can cause infection, so animals might also need antibiotics.
 
Skin Disease or Trauma Around the Mouth
Anything that affects the lips, tongue, and other tissues inside the mouth can cause bad breath. Some examples are bacterial and fungal skin infections, electrocution after chewing an electrical cord, jaw fractures, exposure to caustic substances, and cancer involving the mouth.
 
Disease Elsewhere in the Body
Metabolic diseases like diabetes and kidney disease can change breath odor. Respiratory infections produce secretions that lead to mouth odor in some animals. Disorders of the digestive system can also cause unpleasant breath.
 
Eating Something Smelly
Poop is delicious—to some dogs, anyway. Dogs are more likely than cats to eat something disgusting (to a human) or rotten, but cat treats and cat foods can cause pretty strong fish breath. Licking the anal glands can cause anal gland odor from the mouth. For these particular mouth odors, tooth brushing and dental treats might help, assuming your pet doesn’t keep eating the smelly thing.
 
Image source: https://www.pexels.com/photo/black-white-and-brown-long-coated-dog-9623165/

Indoor cats need a cat-friendly environment with features that support their mental and physical health. Many behavioral and medical problems of cats, including fighting and urinary tract blockage, are linked to stress and anxiety. Environmental enrichment reduces stress for indoor cats, making them happier and healthier.
 
Cats are inquisitive animals that need to be able to do cat things like hunt and scratch. (Animal welfare experts call this the ability to express normal species-specific behaviors.) By nature, cats are predators who hunt alone. Pet cats who lounge all day on the sofa have the same solitary hunting instinct as their wild counterparts.
 
Here’s how to make sure your home meets your cat’s environmental needs. These five features are from the Feline Veterinary Medical Association’s 2025 position statement on meeting the needs of indoor cats:

• A safe place
• Multiple, separated key resources
• Opportunities for play and predatory behavior
• Positive, consistent human-cat interaction
• An environment that respects the cat’s sense of smell

 
A Safe Place
Each cat in the household needs a personal retreat, somewhere to rest and feel protected. Examples are cat perches, cardboard boxes, and cat carriers. The home should have at least one retreat per cat, spaced far enough apart that cats don’t have to interact with each other if they don’t want to. A retreat should be sized to fit only one cat and should have more than one entrance/exit so the cat doesn’t feel trapped. Cats tend to prefer retreats that have sides and are raised off the ground.
 
Multiple, Separated Key Resources
Key resources for cats are food, water, litter boxes, scratching posts/pads, play areas, and sleeping areas. The home should have enough of these resources for every cat, separated so that each cat has free access without having to compete with other cats. For litter boxes, the usual recommendation is to have more than one litter box per cat (for example, three litter boxes for two cats) and to scoop them out daily. Cats need to have safe access to these resources without being blocked by dogs or other hazards. Cats with mobility limitations might need steps, ramps, and litter boxes with side cutouts for easy access.
 
Opportunities for Play and Predatory Behavior
Play with your cat using interactive toys that simulate prey behavior. Examples are toy mice pulled across the floor, flirt poles like feathers on a wand, balls to chase in a (dry!) bathtub, and food puzzles. Let your cat catch the “prey” sometimes to avoid frustration. Be safe: avoid loose strings that your cat might swallow, use objects and not your hands to avoid being bitten, and never aim a laser pointer toward any animal’s or person’s eyes.
 
Positive, Consistent Human-Cat Interaction
For a cat, “positive human-cat interaction” means the cat gets to decide how much and what kind of interaction to have. Some cats are cuddle bugs and love being petted; others would rather stay in their own space. Respect your cat’s preferences for human contact and be sure everybody in the home, including visitors, knows not to force interaction if your cat doesn’t want it. Side note: a change in this behavior can be caused by pain or other medical problems. Contact your veterinarian if your cat has started avoiding petting or is hiding more than usual.
 
Environment That Respects the Cat’s Sense of Smell
Cats mark their territory with scent by rubbing their face and body on objects. They are also sensitive to odors. Don’t clean your cat’s scent off of marked areas, especially if you are bringing in a new cat or if there are other changes to the household environment. Scented cleaners, cat litter, and candles can be sources of stress for some cats (and might also worsen asthma signs for the many cats with this condition).
 
For more information

• Indoor Pet Initiative, Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine: https://indoorpet.osu.edu/cats
• Your Cat’s Environmental Needs, Feline Veterinary Medical Association (PDF): https://catfriendly.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/FelineVMA-Environmental-Needs_Web.pdf

 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-cat-on-a-leash-0mg7-DHCHuo

Dogs are full of curiosity, energy, and the desire to engage with the world around them. Enrichment and activities are crucial for a dog's well-being and memory capabilities, preventing boredom and promoting both mental and physical stimulation. With the right guidance and enrichment, you’ll not only meet their needs—you’ll deepen the bond between you.

How do you know your dog needs more enrichment?
There are many ways dogs can alert us that they need more enrichment in their lives. Some of the most common ways are excessive barking, chewing on inappropriate objects, digging, restlessness, or even zoomies. If you feel your dog exhibits these behaviors often, you may need to consider adding in some more or different types of enrichment!

What is enrichment?
Most dog owners are familiar with physical enrichment - taking your dog for a walk, playing fetch in the yard, etc. But enrichment can be so many more things! Enrichment is any activity that encourages your dog to use its senses, explore, problem-solve, or engage in a physical activity. We will explore different types of enrichment below.

• Physical Enrichment - Physical enrichment is the most common form of enrichment – exercise. Exercise keeps your dog healthy and helps to prevent behavior issues. This includes daily walks or runs, off-leash play (in a secure area), agility games or obstacle courses, fetch, tug-of-war, etc.
• Mental Enrichment - Mental enrichment helps to work your dog's mind and other senses. This type of enrichment can tire your dog just as much as physical exercise, sometimes more! This includes puzzle or food toys, training new tricks or practicing basic commands, or playing games.
• Social Enrichment (if appropriate for your dog’s temperament) - Social enrichment can be great for dogs that do well in social environments. This allows them to interact with other dogs and people and to experience new environments. This can include dog parks or daycare, supervised playdates, or visiting a new location (brewery, new park, SniffSpot, etc). Not every dog does well in every environment or setting! It is important to know your dog’s personality and not put them into an environment or situation that will stress them out too much!
• Occupational Enrichment - Some dog breeds need jobs or tasks to help focus their energy. As dog owners, we can help mimic these jobs with games and training. This includes practicing basic obedience training, playing scent detection games, or classes for higher level skills such as Canine Good Citizen, Rally, Agility, or Scent trials.

How can this be applied to your dog’s daily life?
Now that you know the different types of enrichment, you can start to include these in your dog’s daily routine. There are so many different ideas and activities to try, it can be a bit overwhelming to know where to begin. Remember, every dog has its own personality so start by implementing enrichment activities that you know your dog will engage with. For example: if your dog is very food motivated, consider adding food puzzle toys occasionally or using these to feed whole meals.
Below are a variety of enrichment ideas to get you and your dog started:

• Food or puzzle toys – These help to encourage playing, problem solving, and independence from your dog. You can feed a small snack, treats, or even a whole meal from these toys! My favorite options are Kongs, snuffle mats, and a variety of treat-dispensing toys. These can be found at most pet stores or even Amazon. 
• Toy rotation – Consider swapping out or rotating your dog's toys regularly. This helps to break up their routine and add some variety to their play time. Make sure to include toys that are different textures or make different sounds!
• Sniff walks – Take a long slow walk (consider a new place for added enrichment), allowing your dog to walk at their own pace and sniff everything at their leisure. This helps to engage their olfactory and visual senses.
• Hide n Seek or Scent games – Keep your dog restrained in one area of the house and rub a good smelling treat or food item around the house before hiding it. Then, take your dog to the start of the scent and encourage them to search or find it.
• Dog TV – Consider leaving your TV on a science or nature channel or put your dog’s bed near a window (as long as they are not reactive to outside stimuli!). If you are able, you can even place a bird feeder outside the window.
• Training – Consider enrolling your dog in a training class. This can be a review of obedience training or to learn a new skill such as Rally, Agility, Barn Hunt, Scent Trials, or Canine Good Citizen training. Classes are a good way to expose your dog to a new setting/environment, interact with new people and dogs, and can be a great bonding experience for you and your dog! You can also practice basic commands or consider teaching a new trick to your dog at home. Opt for short frequent training sessions (10-15 minutes) to avoid frustration or making your dog feel overwhelmed.

​Whether you have a young, energetic dog or an older, senior dog, all dogs will benefit from daily physical and mental stimulation. When you focus on meeting your dog’s natural needs through intentional enrichment, you support their mental and physical health, strengthen your bond, and create a happier, more confident dog. Dog enrichment doesn’t have to be overwhelming or time-consuming. The best enrichment plan is one that works for you and your dog. Getting started is sometimes the hardest part, but once you create a balanced routine, you and your pet will thrive. Try a new activity, see how your dog responds, and have fun from there by discovering what they enjoy! When you get the mix of structure and stimulation right, your dog won’t just calm down—they’ll be living their best life.