Cats need access to food, water, shelter, and litter boxes. We can consider these their essential needs to survive; however, they also need means to express typical species behavior like hunting, viewing, climbing, scratching, and playing. Enrichment enhances our cat’s environment by giving them chances to express these behaviors. This can improve their mental and physical well-being and even reduce unwanted behaviors. Any changes in routine can be stressful for cats and any new activity or changes in environment are recommended to be done slow and steady.
 
Different Types of Enrichment
Food puzzles/foraging toys: Food puzzles are a great way to increase your cat's activity and mental stimulation. There are a variety of commercially made food puzzles like Doc and Phoebe’s mice, sniffle mats, Trixie puzzle feeders, etc. Some of these are stationary and others cats have to move around to get food out of them. You can also make your own using cardboard boxes, towels, toilet paper roll, etc. When introducing your cat to any food puzzle, recommend starting easy then building up to more challenging puzzles.
 
Toys: Cats have a natural instinct to hunt and we can use this instinct to get them to play. Cats typically like mice, bugs, and birds as prey when they live outdoors. With this in mind, using toys that mimic the feel, sound, or movement of mice, bugs, or birds can entice cats to play more. Some examples are wand toys with feathers or faux fur OR cat dancer toys (mimic a bug). It is best to rotate toys so they do not lose interest (ideally every few days).
 
Clicker training: Cats can be trained to do a variety of tricks (sit, high-five, lay down, etc) or go through an obstacle course. Clicker training can even be used to help you medicate your cat (with appropriate training). Recommend getting a clicker with a ball at the end (this can be purchased online).
 
Sensory enrichment: Videos of mice, birds, or fish can be stimulating for cats (YouTube videos). Or set up a bird feeder outside near their favorite window with a window perch. For their sense of smell and need to chew, catnip or silvervine or cat grass can be stimulating for them. Outdoor walks or screened-in porches are great sources of enrichment for cats as well (please ensure this is under supervision).
 
Environmental enrichment (cat trees, scratchers, and more): One of the cat’s essential needs is shelter, which includes a safe place to sleep and rest; however, this also includes a place to have time alone or get away from people or other animals. This is where cat trees or other vertical spaces can be very useful. It also creates areas where you can have playtime or feed them or use it as part of an obstacle course. Another important behavior/need cats have is scratching. This is important for their nail health. Many cats have preferences of the material and vertical versus horizontal. I recommend trying out the different options. There are a variety of other cat furniture ideas you can use for enrichment, such as shelves, tunnels, window perches, etc. Consider changing the positions or locations of any of these to renew their interest.
 
Check out these resources for more ideas regarding feline enrichment:

• https://www.catschool.co/clicker-training-cats-all-your-questions-answered/
• Fundamentally Feline by Ingrid Johnson
• Ohio State University Indoor Cat Initiative
• “Play With Your Cat” by Mikel Delgado on her What a Cat Wants blog
• http://foodpuzzlesforcats.com/

Urinary tract disorders are common in cats. Feline lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD) is a general term that describes disorders of the bladder and urethra. A number of disorders cause FLUTD, so cats with any changes in urination or litter box behavior need to see a veterinarian.
 
Signs
Cats with FLUTD have similar signs regardless of the underlying cause:

• Frequent urination
• Straining to urinate (can be mistaken for constipation)
  Note: for male cats, straining without producing more than a few drops of urine is a medical emergency.
• Crying in the litter box
• Urinating outside the litter box
• Blood in the urine
• Overgrooming around the urethral opening (can cause hair loss under the tail)
• Nonspecific signs of cat discomfort: decreased activity, decreased appetite, grumpiness

 
Causes
Idiopathic Cystitis
The most common cause of FLUTD is idiopathic cystitis. Idiopathic means “of unknown cause,” so this condition is diagnosed when tests don’t reveal another cause. Chronic stress appears to be a major risk factor. An abnormality of the bladder lining could also be involved. Idiopathic cystitis is managed rather than cured. The signs tend to come and go over time. Flare-ups often improve on their own regardless of treatment, which makes it hard to tell if a particular treatment has actually had any effect. Cats with idiopathic cystitis are treated with stress-reducing measures like environmental enrichment and antianxiety medication. Some cats benefit from other medications or special diets.
 
Urinary Tract Infection
Urinary tract infections are uncommon in young and middle-aged cats. Cat urine is normally so concentrated that bacteria can’t easily survive in it. However, diseases that affect urine concentration and chemical composition (like kidney disease and diabetes) are very common in older cats, so cats in this age group are much more likely to have urinary tract infections. A diagnosis of urinary tract infection requires urinalysis and ideally a urine culture to identify the specific bacteria. Older cats with urinary tract infections should also have bloodwork and radiography or ultrasonography of the abdomen to find the underlying cause. Bacterial urinary tract infections are treated with antibiotics, ideally chosen according to culture results.
 
Uroliths (Bladder Stones)
Uroliths are rocklike mineral collections that form in the bladder or any other part of the urinary tract. Uroliths are found with radiography or ultrasonography. Some types of uroliths can be dissolved with a prescription diet; others require surgical removal. Even the dissolvable types often need to be removed surgically because they can be painful, cause infection, and block the urethra of male cats. Uroliths that form in a kidney or ureter (the tube connecting the kidney to the bladder) usually warrant referral to a veterinary surgery specialist.
 
Urethral Obstruction
Urethral obstruction is a life-threatening condition in which a urolith or mucus plug blocks the urethra. Male cats are at much higher risk than female cats because male cats’ urethras are narrower and longer. Cats with urethral obstruction initially have the same signs as cats with FLUTD from any other cause. If the obstruction isn’t removed, the bladder becomes large and painful and can rupture. The kidneys can no longer function normally, and the cat can die of toxin buildup and electrolyte imbalance. Cats with urethral obstruction need emergency care and usually at least a few days of hospitalization.
 
Other Causes
Cancer, injury of the spinal cord or urinary tract, and anatomical problems with the urinary tract can also cause FLUTD.
 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/black-and-white-cat-lying-on-brown-bamboo-chair-inside-room-gKXKBY-C-Dk

Skunks aren’t aggressive, but they’ll spray dogs that get too close. Skunk spray is a smelly nuisance that doesn’t usually cause medical problems. However, it’s irritating to the eyes and in rare cases can cause more serious problems.
 
Dogs are most likely to encounter skunks during warm months. In North Carolina, skunk breeding season is February through April; kits are born in May and June. Skunks live in cities like Charlotte, not just in rural areas. You might not see them often—or at all—because they’re most active at night. They live in wooded or brushy areas and raid garbage cans in residential neighborhoods.
 
Skunk Spray
Skunk spray is thick, oily material secreted from the anal glands. The nasty smell comes from thioacetates and thiols, chemical compounds that contain sulfur—the same element that makes rotten eggs so stinky. Thioacetates (the less smelly compounds) are converted to thiols (super smelly) when they’re exposed to water, and sulfur atoms tend to bind tightly to other atoms, so removing skunk odor from fur can be difficult. Because water activates the thiol conversion, a dog that’s been skunked can smell skunky after baths for a long time.
 
Skunks can control their anal glands in ways that dogs and cats can’t. They can aim their anal gland spray at a target several feet away, or they can release a cloud of mist. Baby skunks can spray targets too.
 
Risks to Dogs
Spray
Skunk spray in the eyes can cause redness, eyelid swelling, corneal damage, and temporary blindness. Inhaled skunk spray irritates the respiratory tract. The spray can also cause nausea and vomiting.
 
Dogs sprayed by a skunk can develop life-threatening hemolytic anemia, although fortunately this is rare. The compounds in skunk spray can destroy red blood cells. The risk is likely highest for dogs that swallow the spray, dogs exposed to a large volume, and dogs with multiple exposures. Dogs with hemolytic anemia often need to be hospitalized at a 24-hour clinic and might need a blood transfusion.
 
Bite Wounds and Rabies
Skunks are a relatively common rabies carrier species in North Carolina. However, the chance that an individual skunk has rabies is low. Rabies is spread through saliva, not through skunk spray. Most dogs that encounter a skunk are sprayed before they get close enough to be bitten. Still, any dog that has been near a skunk should be checked carefully for bite wounds.
 
Dogs with a bite wound need to see a veterinarian immediately for wound care and assessment of rabies risk. In North Carolina, dogs with a possible rabies exposure (for example, a bite wound from a rabies carrier species) need a rabies vaccine booster within 96 hours.
 
What to Do if Your Dog Gets Skunked
Most dogs sprayed by skunks don’t need to see a veterinarian. Monitor your dog for a few days and seek veterinary care if your dog has any of the following:

• Bite wounds
• Eye problems: squinting, redness, swelling, discharge, blindness
• Respiratory problems: coughing, wheezing
• Vomiting or loss of appetite for more than a few hours
• Signs of hemolytic anemia (can start a few hours to a few days after exposure): weakness, pale or brown gums, black stool

 
Deskunk your dog:

• Wear disposable gloves and old clothes you can throw away if needed.
• Bathe your dog outdoors.
• Don’t bother with tomato juice; it doesn’t work. Use a product that converts thiols into compounds that smell less bad and can be washed off.
• Commercial deskunking shampoos are one option.
• A homemade deskunking mixture is 1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide + 1/4 cup baking soda + 1 to 2 teaspoons liquid dish detergent. Lather your dog, wait 5 minutes, rinse thoroughly, and repeat as needed. Bathe your dog in normal dog shampoo afterward. This mixture can discolor fur and clothing.
• NEVER keep the homemade peroxide solution in a closed container; it can explode. It doesn’t store well, so make only enough to use the same day.

 
Prevention
Keep your dog’s rabies vaccine up to date and make your yard unattractive to skunks:

• Secure garbage cans.
• Cover compost piles.
• Feed pets indoors.
• Close off crawl spaces, sheds, and areas under porches.
• Minimize or clean up bird seed on the ground under feeders.

 
For More Information

• Striped skunk (North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission): https://www.ncwildlife.org/portals/0/learning/documents/profiles/skunk.pdf
• The chemistry of skunk spray (episode of Gross Science on NOVA, PBS, October 13, 2016): https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/nature/chemistry-skunk.html

 
Image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/lblkytn/14928066475/