Environmental enrichment means modifying an animal’s living space to encourage physical activity and allow the animal to engage in behaviors that are natural for its species. For indoor pets especially, environmental enrichment improves physical and mental health and can reduce behavior problems.
 
Dogs and cats with mobility problems need environmental modification for accessibility and mental stimulation. Pets have mobility limitations for a variety of reasons:

• Arthritis or other medical conditions that cause joint, bone, or muscle pain
• Frailty from advanced age
• Neurologic conditions that affect balance and coordination
• Decreased vision
• Recovery from surgery
• Activity restriction as part of medical treatment

For these pets, thoughtful environmental enrichment can reduce stress and increase quality of life.
 
Household Modifications and Physical Activity
Cover hard floors with nonslip mats or rugs. Consider using lots of small washable mats instead of large rugs for easier cleaning if your pet urinates or defecates on the floor (common in animals with medical problems, mobility limitations, or cognitive decline). Be sure to have a nonslip surface in front of your pet’s food and water bowls.
 
Use steps and ramps. Think of all the places your pet likes to be that are not the floor—bed, sofa, cat tree (climbing structure), window seat, and so forth—and make sure your pet can get up and down without jumping. You might need to train your pet to use steps and ramps by leading them with treats.
 
Cats need to scratch for claw health and their mental health (it’s normal species behavior). Reaching and stretching can be difficult for cats with arthritis, so offer your cat horizontal as well as vertical scratching surfaces.
 
Ask your veterinarian about exercise that’s appropriate for your pet. Depending on the medical condition, your pet might benefit from controlled gentle exercise. Some veterinary facilities have physical rehabilitation equipment like underwater treadmills.
 
Toileting
Difficulty reaching the toileting area causes anxiety for animals. For cats, put low-sided litter boxes on every floor of the house in quiet, accessible areas. Cats tend to be most comfortable toileting in big open boxes (at least 1.5 times the length of the cat, not including the tail). A large plastic storage bin makes a great litter box; cut an opening on one side so your cat can walk in and out easily.
 
Dogs with new mobility problems or cognitive decline might not give you their usual cues that they need to go out. If your dog or cat starts having toileting accidents indoors, make a veterinary appointment to check for a medical reason. If no medical cause is found, your pet might be having trouble getting outside or to the litter box.
 
Mental Stimulation
Engage your pet’s senses: use toys with different odors, textures, and sounds. Puzzle feeders and treat-dispensing toys engage the brain and encourage physical activity. Teach your old dog or cat new tricks. Use positive reinforcement to train new behaviors that don’t require a lot of movement (like touching their nose to your hand).
 
For dogs with mobility problems, walks aren’t really about walking. Just seeing and smelling the outdoors is valuable mental enrichment for dogs. Take your dog out on a harness and forget about actually getting anywhere; be patient and let him sniff and wander at his own pace. If your dog can’t walk easily, carry him or use a wagon.
 
Give your cat a soft seat by a window if possible. Your cat might also enjoy cat-friendly videos.
 
For More Ideas
Home modifications. International Cat Care. 2024. Accessed June 18, 2024. https://icatcare.org/app/uploads/2024/03/Changes-to-the-home-environment_ISFM-caregiver-guide_FINAL.pdf
 
Sueda K, Cho J. Environmental enrichment for senior dogs and cats. Clinician’s Brief. December 2017. Accessed June 18, 2024. https://www.cliniciansbrief.com/article/environmental-enrichment-senior-dogs-cats
 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/black-cat-on-white-cat-tree-X7OokuRyvCI

Cats need access to food, water, shelter, and litter boxes. We can consider these their essential needs to survive; however, they also need means to express typical species behavior like hunting, viewing, climbing, scratching, and playing. Enrichment enhances our cat’s environment by giving them chances to express these behaviors. This can improve their mental and physical well-being and even reduce unwanted behaviors. Any changes in routine can be stressful for cats and any new activity or changes in environment are recommended to be done slow and steady.
 
Different Types of Enrichment
Food puzzles/foraging toys: Food puzzles are a great way to increase your cat's activity and mental stimulation. There are a variety of commercially made food puzzles like Doc and Phoebe’s mice, sniffle mats, Trixie puzzle feeders, etc. Some of these are stationary and others cats have to move around to get food out of them. You can also make your own using cardboard boxes, towels, toilet paper roll, etc. When introducing your cat to any food puzzle, recommend starting easy then building up to more challenging puzzles.
 
Toys: Cats have a natural instinct to hunt and we can use this instinct to get them to play. Cats typically like mice, bugs, and birds as prey when they live outdoors. With this in mind, using toys that mimic the feel, sound, or movement of mice, bugs, or birds can entice cats to play more. Some examples are wand toys with feathers or faux fur OR cat dancer toys (mimic a bug). It is best to rotate toys so they do not lose interest (ideally every few days).
 
Clicker training: Cats can be trained to do a variety of tricks (sit, high-five, lay down, etc) or go through an obstacle course. Clicker training can even be used to help you medicate your cat (with appropriate training). Recommend getting a clicker with a ball at the end (this can be purchased online).
 
Sensory enrichment: Videos of mice, birds, or fish can be stimulating for cats (YouTube videos). Or set up a bird feeder outside near their favorite window with a window perch. For their sense of smell and need to chew, catnip or silvervine or cat grass can be stimulating for them. Outdoor walks or screened-in porches are great sources of enrichment for cats as well (please ensure this is under supervision).
 
Environmental enrichment (cat trees, scratchers, and more): One of the cat’s essential needs is shelter, which includes a safe place to sleep and rest; however, this also includes a place to have time alone or get away from people or other animals. This is where cat trees or other vertical spaces can be very useful. It also creates areas where you can have playtime or feed them or use it as part of an obstacle course. Another important behavior/need cats have is scratching. This is important for their nail health. Many cats have preferences of the material and vertical versus horizontal. I recommend trying out the different options. There are a variety of other cat furniture ideas you can use for enrichment, such as shelves, tunnels, window perches, etc. Consider changing the positions or locations of any of these to renew their interest.
 
Check out these resources for more ideas regarding feline enrichment:

• https://www.catschool.co/clicker-training-cats-all-your-questions-answered/
• Fundamentally Feline by Ingrid Johnson
• Ohio State University Indoor Cat Initiative
• “Play With Your Cat” by Mikel Delgado on her What a Cat Wants blog
• http://foodpuzzlesforcats.com/

Many dogs and cats experience fear, anxiety, and stress at the veterinary clinic. Their anxiety often begins before they even arrive at the clinic, especially if they associate pet carriers and car rides with the clinic. Previsit antianxiety medications for pets can make clinic visits easier and safer for these pets, their owners, and clinic staff.
 
These are some of the benefits of previsit medications for anxious pets:

• Less stress at the clinic
• Better acceptance of future clinic visits
• Less stress for car rides
• Less need for restraint by multiple staff members
• Increased ability to have diagnostic procedures and treatments
• Increased safety for patients for whom stress and struggle are risky (for example, patients with heart disease, respiratory disease, frail condition, or brachycephalic head shape [flat face])

 
Previsit medications have benefits for pet owners and clinic staff members too. Being the caretaker of an anxious and fearful pet isn’t easy, so previsit medications for pets can reduce everyone’s stress levels. For clinic staff members, managing patients’ clinic anxiety reduces the risk of injury and decreases workplace stress (we love animals too and don’t want to cause them distress).
 
How to Know if Your Pet Needs Previsit Medications
Previsit medications aren’t just for aggressive animals. Pets with more subtle signs of stress are scared too, and they deserve help for their anxiety just as much as animals that can’t be handled without full sedation.
 
If your pet shows obvious signs of fear at the clinic, you probably already know that your pet would benefit from previsit medications. But maybe your pet’s signs are not as noticeable and you’re a little surprised when your veterinarian recommends medications.
 
Dogs and cats show anxiety and fear with a range of behaviors and body language cues. Anxious and fearful dogs and cats tend to start with subtle behaviors like lip licking or freezing. If the scary thing doesn’t go away—or tries to draw a blood sample—the behavior can escalate to aggression.
 
Dogs and cats that are anxious at the veterinary clinic can show these signs:

• Hiding
• Refusing to leave the carrier
• Freezing
• Yawning, lip licking (dogs)
• Pacing
• Panting
• Trembling
• Hard stare or side eye
• Struggling
• Growling, hissing, snarling, barking
• Swatting (cats)
• Warning snap
• Biting

 
How to Use Previsit Medications
Previsit medications work best if they’re used along with training and positive reinforcement. For example, a cat can make positive associations with the cat carrier if the carrier is left out all the time as part of the normal household furniture, sometimes with yummy treats inside, instead of appearing only when the cat is going to the clinic.
 
Veterinarians choose previsit medications according to the needs and medical condition of the individual patient. Some of the drugs commonly prescribed for situational (short-term) anxiety are gabapentin, trazodone, and clonidine. Motion sickness contributes to anxiety, so pets might also receive antinausea medication. Some of these medications can cause sedation, but the main goal is anxiety reduction, not sedation.
 
Previsit medications are timed to have maximum effect at the time of the clinic visit. They need to take effect before the pet experiences any stress. Most of these medications are given at least 1 to 2 hours before the clinic visit; sometimes a loading dose is also given the night before. They typically last for up to 8 hours, although the duration can vary.
 
Because individual animals respond differently to these medications, giving a trial dose can be very helpful. If you use a trial dose, tell your veterinarian how long it took for the medication to take effect, how the medication affected your pet’s behavior, whether your pet had adverse effects like vomiting or excessive sedation, and how long the medication’s effects lasted.
 
For some dogs and cats, previsit medications aren’t enough to overcome their fear. These pets might also need a sedative injection at the clinic. For these pets, previsit medications given at home make the sedative injection easier for the pet (and staff) and can also reduce the dose of injectable drug.
 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-white-cat-sitting-inside-of-a-cage-B-_SyRxv2So

Aggression related to being petted is very common in cats. Cats with this type of aggression suddenly scratch, growl, or bite while they’re being petted.
 
The most likely explanations for petting-related aggression are that the cat is overstimulated, has a low tolerance for being touched, or is trying to exert some control over the interaction. It’s also possible that the cat has a medical problem (for example, pain caused by arthritis or dental disease). Any type of aggression, especially if it’s a new behavior, warrants an examination by a veterinarian.
 
The people most at risk of injury are children and others who don’t know the signs that a cat is uncomfortable with an interaction. Tolerance to petting varies from cat to cat, and the same cat’s tolerance can change according to the circumstances.
 
To help people understand the best way to interact with cats, a team of researchers in the United Kingdom developed a set of guidelines that they describe with the acronym CAT (for choice, attention, and touch).[1] The team found that cats showed less aggression when people followed the CAT guidelines during interactions.
 
The gist of the CAT guidelines is that we should handle cats the way they want to be handled and leave them alone when they want to be left alone. Makes sense, right? However, in another study, the same team found that some people who had lots of cat-owning experience and rated their own cat knowledge as high interacted in ways the cats did not want.[2]
 
The following is a summary of the CAT guidelines, or how to pet a cat.
 
C: Give the cat choice and control.

• Stay in one place and offer your hand to the cat. Let the cat decide whether to approach you and interact.
• If the cat rubs against you, it’s OK to pet the cat. If the cat doesn’t rub against you, don’t pet the cat.
• If the cat walks away from you, don’t follow.
• When you’re petting a cat, pause every few seconds to let the cat choose whether to continue. If the cat doesn’t rub against your hand when you pause, don’t keep petting the cat.

 
A: Pay attention to the cat’s body language.
These are signs that a cat might not want to be petted any longer:

• Turns head away from you
• Moves away from you
• Flattens ears or rotates ears backward
• Shakes head
• Fur on the back makes a rippling movement
• Licks nose
• Grooms self for just a few seconds
• Stops purring or rubbing against you
• Turns head sharply toward you or your hand
• Twitches tail vigorously

 
T: Touch the cat only where the cat wants to be touched.

• Areas that are OK with most friendly cats: top of head, base of ears, side of face, under chin
• Areas that are not OK with most cats: belly, base of tail
• Areas that might or might not be OK (watch the cat’s body language): back, sides, legs, tail

 
To read more about cat-friendly petting and how humans interact with cats, check out these 2 articles:

• “Why Petting Can Make Some Cats Aggressive,” by Zazie Todd, PhD (Psychology Today website, June 29, 2021): https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/fellow-creatures/202106/why-petting-can-make-some-cats-aggressive
• “Do People Know How to Pet Cats?” by Mikel Maria Delgado, PhD (What Your Cat Wants website, October 2, 2022): http://whatyourcatwants.com/do-people-know-how-to-pet-cats

 
References
1. Haywood C, Ripari L, Puzzo J, Foreman-Worsley R, Finka LR. Providing humans with practical, best practice handling guidelines during human-cat interactions increases cats' affiliative behaviour and reduces aggression and signs of conflict. Front Vet Sci. 2021;8:714143. doi:10.3389/fvets.2021.714143
2. Finka LR, Ripari L, Quinlan L, et al. Investigation of humans individual differences as predictors of their animal interaction styles, focused on the domestic cat. Sci Rep. 2022;12(1):12128. doi:10.1038/s41598-022-15194-7
 
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Socializing young kittens and puppies means giving them positive experiences with things they’ll encounter throughout their lives. Building positive associations early in life helps animals feel comfortable with new people and new situations. Animals that are well socialized when they’re young are less likely to develop fear-based behavior problems (like aggression) that could put them at risk of being sent to a shelter or euthanized later on.
 
Sensitive Period for Socialization
For kittens, the window of opportunity for socialization is very early: from 3 weeks to about 7 to 9 weeks of age.[1,2] The sensitive period is the time when a young kitten’s brain is most receptive to socialization. During these early weeks, a kitten is exploring and learning, developing neurological pathways that will help the kitten learn in the future. After the sensitive period, brain development shifts; kittens don’t make positive associations as quickly or easily and they’re more likely to be afraid of new things. This is why it’s so difficult, if not impossible, to convert a semi-feral adult cat into a cat that can be happy living as a house pet.
 
You will have noticed that the sensitive socialization period for kittens is nearly closed by the time they’re typically adopted or purchased. Socialization needs to start with the person caring for the mother cat and newborns. When you adopt or buy a kitten, continue providing socialization (at the kitten’s comfort level and pace) to reinforce what the kitten has already learned.
 
The socialization process should always be positive. Don’t force kittens to interact with strangers or other animals if they’re shy, and don’t push them to be near things that scare them. Let them choose whether to interact. Give them room to walk away and let them hide if they want to. Use positive reinforcement (food or play) to encourage them to interact and build their confidence.
 
The following suggestions are adapted from the American Veterinary Medical Association.[1] For more tips, check out the First Year of Life page on the Cat Friendly Homes website: https://catfriendly.com/life-stages/first-year-life/
 
Socializing Kittens Before Weaning

• Kittens need to interact with members of their own species. For orphaned kittens, provide interaction with other kittens and cats as much as possible.
• Have more than 1 person handle the kittens.
• Handle each kitten individually, away from the mama cat and the litter, every day.
• Provide exposure to a variety of surfaces, textures, and objects to play with.

 
Socializing Kittens 8 to 12 Weeks Old

• Provide toys with various textures, scents, and sounds.
• Give the kitten gentle, positive exposure to a variety of people of different ages, sizes, and genders; with beards, wearing hats, wearing face coverings, carrying umbrellas, and so forth.
• Provide supervised interaction with other animals, especially species that might become pets in the kitten’s home.
• Playing with other kittens and cats (belonging to family members/friends or in a kitten class) is very useful. Kittens this age are not yet fully vaccinated, so the other kittens and cats should be vaccinated as appropriate for their age and free of parasites.
• Start crate training: leave the crate out all the time with the door open and put toys and food inside. Let the kitten explore the crate and start going into the crate on her own.
• Once the kitten is comfortable with the crate, start taking the kitten on short car rides that end with something fun, like a play session. (Don’t pull out the crate and go for a car ride only when the trip is going to end with shots at the veterinary clinic.)
• Handle all parts of the kitten’s body and hold him in different positions—always gently and never in a way that frightens the kitten.

 
Older Kittens and Newly Adopted Adult Cats

• Don’t assume that an older kitten or cat had early socialization. Instead, watch the cat for signs of stress or fear to assess her comfort level with different situations and people.
• Take time to build trust with the cat so he will feel secure in his new home. Don’t force interactions and don’t scold the cat; use lots of positive reinforcement like treats.
• Provide the same kinds of enrichment and exposure as with younger kittens (including crate training), but realize that an older kitten or an adult cat might need much longer to become accustomed to new things.
• Seek the advice of a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist if the cat has fear or aggression that does not improve with time.

 
References
1. Welfare implications of socialization of puppies and kittens. American Veterinary Medical Association. June 9, 2015. Accessed July 8, 2022. https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/literature-reviews/welfare-implications-socialization-puppies-and-kittens
2. Todd Z. The sensitive period for socialization in puppies and kittens. Companion Animal Psychology. July 26, 2017. Accessed July 8, 2022. https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2017/07/the-sensitive-period-for-socialization.html
 
Photo by Haley Owens on Unsplash

Holiday celebrations can be stressful for pets. Visitors, changes in routine, changes in food, unfamiliar scents and objects in the home, traveling, and noise can all cause anxiety for animals. Animals are more likely to bite when they’re scared or anxious, so minimizing sources of stress for your pets will help keep the holidays happy for everyone.
 
Limit Stressful Situations
To identify sources of stress for your pets, think like an animal. Animals feel safest when their routines and environment are predictable. Keep meal times, nap times, and exercise and play schedules about the same as usual. You might want to sleep late on a holiday (OK, the day after a holiday), but if your pets are used to a very consistent morning routine, this change could contribute to stress.
 
It’s normal and very human to want to include pets in our celebrations, but be careful not to think of your animals as little people in fur (or scale or feather) coats. They won’t feel left out if they’re not invited to a party. Most animals would rather be in a nice quiet room than in the middle of holiday hubbub. Think about your pets’ usual behavior around strangers and noise, and let them stay wherever they are most comfortable and safe.
 
Be aware of foods that aren’t safe for animals, especially if you have visitors who don’t know what your pets should and shouldn’t eat. Chocolate, xylitol sweetener, grapes, raisins, onion, garlic, and raw yeast dough are some of the foods that can be dangerous for animals. Limit or avoid table food for your pets; fatty or rich food can cause digestive upset. A holiday trip to the emergency veterinary clinic is not on anyone’s wish list.
 
Contact your veterinarian in advance if your pet is afraid of fireworks or has travel anxiety. Your veterinarian might recommend prescription or nonprescription antianxiety medication, depending on the symptoms. Plan ahead for this. Your pet might need a veterinary examination before medication can be prescribed.
 
Watch for Signs of Stress
The early signs of fear and anxiety can be subtle. Owners sometimes don’t realize their pets are in distress until the behavior escalates to aggression (an attempt to remove a perceived threat). Watch for any changes from the usual behavior. Some animals withdraw and hide in response to stress; others become hyperactive or clingy.
 
Signs of Anxiety in Dogs

• Freezing in place
• Hiding
• Seeking attention
• Whining or barking
• Panting
• Trembling
• Yawning
• Licking lips or nose
• Turning or walking away
• Crouching with ears back and tail tucked
• Showing the whites of the eyes
• Destroying property
• Urinating or defecating
• Growling
• Biting

 
Signs of Anxiety in Cats

• Freezing in place
• Hiding
• Seeking attention
• Meowing
• Trembling
• Eating less or more than usual
• Playing less than usual
• Increased or decreased grooming
• Increased face rubbing
• Urinating or defecating in an inappropriate place
• Crouching with tail close to the body and head lower than the body
• Holding ears flattened back from face
• Hissing
• Swatting
• Biting

 
Photo by Tyler Farmer on Unsplash

The way we feed cats—not just the type of diet we choose—can affect their physical and mental health.
 
Animals are happiest and healthiest when they’re able to do all of the things that are normal for their species. For cats, normal feeding behavior is related to their nature as hunters.
 
Almost all cat species are solitary hunters, unlike wolves and other canines that hunt in packs. (Lions are the exception.) Domestic cats have not evolved far from their wild relatives in this respect. This means that pet cats usually like to eat several small meals a day alone, according to the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP).
 
The following suggestions are from the 2018 AAFP consensus statement on feline feeding programs.[1]
 
Potential Health Problems Related to Feeding Methods
Some common feeding methods can cause physical and emotional problems for pet cats, says the AAFP.
 
Feeding 1 or 2 large meals a day in a single location contributes to inactivity and weight gain, increasing the risk for medical problems like diabetes. Eliminating the need to hunt reduces a cat’s activity level and mental stimulation. And feeding cats in a group might lead to food-related conflict and stress, which in cats is linked to bladder and behavior problems.
 
Suggestions for Feeding Cats

• Choose a diet that is complete and balanced for your cat’s life stage. Cats are carnivores and need diets that contain meat.
• Feed the right amount for your cat’s size and activity level. Check with your veterinarian if you’re not sure how much food your cat needs.
• Offer several small meals throughout the day instead of 1 or 2 large meals (feed the same total amount either way).
• Use puzzle feeders to give your cat some mental stimulation. A puzzle feeder is a food holder that a cat has to manipulate to get to the food. A puzzle feeder can be as simple as a plastic drink bottle or an egg carton containing dry kibble. More complex manufactured puzzle feeders are also available. Start with a simple puzzle, and use treats if needed to train your cat to use the feeder. Some cats would rather eat from a bowl plunked down in front of them than play with a puzzle feeder,[2] so give your cat choices of feeders and plenty of time to get used to anything new.
• Let your cat forage for food. Put small amounts of food in different locations for your cat to find. Put some food on higher surfaces if your cat doesn’t have trouble jumping up and down.
• Be sure your cat can access her food easily, especially if she has medical problems that limit her mobility.
• Monitor your cat’s weight. If your cat is losing weight, schedule a veterinary examination to find out if the weight loss is caused by a medical condition. If your cat is gaining weight, decrease the total amount fed and contact your veterinarian for suggestions that are specific for your cat.

 
Suggestions for Multiple Cats

• If you have more than 1 cat, have multiple feeding areas so they can eat alone if they like. Forcing a cat to eat in the company of another cat that he usually tries to avoid can cause anxiety, says the AAFP.
• Feeding cats separately can be a challenge. Programmable feeders linked to individual cats’ microchips are available for cats that need to eat a different food than other cats in the home. You might be able to separate feeding areas with doors or baby gates (depending on your cats’ ability to jump over a gate).
• Watch your cats’ interactions to find out which ones are comfortable being together and which ones avoid each other. Make sure all of them can access their food without another cat blocking their way.

 
References
1. Sadek T, Hamper B, Horwitz D, Rodan I, Rowe E, Sundahl E. Feline feeding programs: addressing behavioral needs to improve feline health and wellbeing. J Feline Med Surg. 2018;20(11):1049-1055. doi:10.1177/1098612X18791877
2. Delgado MM, Han BSG, Bain MJ. Domestic cats (Felis catus) prefer freely available food over food that requires effort. Anim Cogn. Published online July 26, 2021. doi:10.1007/s10071-021-01530-3
 
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Any dog might need to wear a muzzle at some point. Muzzle training makes wearing a muzzle stress-free and even fun for the dog. Resources for training a dog to love a muzzle are linked at the end of this article.
 
Why Dogs Wear Muzzles
Muzzles can be incredibly useful. Wearing a muzzle doesn’t necessarily mean that a dog is aggressive. A muzzle is just another tool to help keep dogs and people safe. These are some of the many reasons a dog might use a muzzle:

• The dog is anxious around strangers or other dogs. For these dogs, muzzles are useful for multiple reasons:
  • They prevent injury from fear biting.
  • They let people know to give the dog space.
  • They help the dog feel more comfortable in public, if the dog has had good muzzle training.
• The dog is injured and in pain.
• The dog is nervous about veterinary procedures.
• The dog eats garbage, rocks, dead wildlife, etc.
• The dog needs to stop licking a wound. (But don’t leave a muzzle on an unattended dog.)
• The dog has to wear a muzzle on public transport or in other public places.
• The dog is a police, military, or other working dog.
• The dog has a history of biting.

 
Choosing a Muzzle
The type of muzzle to look for is a basket muzzle. Correctly fitted basket muzzles don’t hold a dog’s mouth shut, so a dog wearing a basket muzzle can pant, drink water, and take treats.
 
Don’t buy a cloth muzzle like the ones sometimes used for dog grooming and veterinary procedures. Cloth muzzles keep the dog’s mouth closed, so these muzzles are not safe for dogs to wear for more than a few minutes and can also be stressful for dogs.
 
Basket muzzles come in various styles, materials, and colors. Some are made of flexible rubber; muzzles made of wire offer more bite protection. Muzzles for specific breeds (like greyhounds) and custom-made muzzles for dogs with hard-to-fit faces are also available.
 
The fit of the muzzle is crucial, so you’ll need to measure your dog’s face according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (Estimate the measurement if your dog might bite when his face is touched.) A basket muzzle should be long enough to avoid rubbing the tip of the nose but not so long that it hits the dog’s eyes, and it should be deep enough to let the dog open his mouth wide to pant. A basket muzzle deep enough to allow for full panting will probably look huge when the dog’s mouth is closed, but this is the correct fit.
 
The muzzle should have lots of openings for air flow. Some basket muzzles have large holes for treats; others have smaller gaps in front of the nose to keep dogs from eating things they shouldn’t.
 
Muzzle Training Basics
Dogs accept muzzles most readily if the training involves yummy treats and is done gradually over weeks.[1] Dogs who are already afraid of muzzles need extra training steps and more time; don’t hesitate to seek help from a positive-reinforcement trainer.
 
Watch your dog’s body language throughout training to be sure she’s happy and relaxed. If at any point your dog avoids the muzzle, you’re moving too fast. Back up a couple of steps and proceed more slowly.

1. Teach your dog that the muzzle predicts treats. Show the dog the muzzle, then give the dog treats. Stop giving treats when you put the muzzle away. Repeat until the dog is looking for treats whenever she sees the muzzle.
2. Teach your dog to put her nose into the muzzle. Use high-value treats to lure your dog’s nose into the muzzle, and feed her treats through the muzzle. You can also spread peanut butter or other smearable food inside the muzzle.
3. Reward your dog for putting her nose in the muzzle on her own without being lured into it. Gradually increase the time that her nose is in the muzzle before rewarding her.
4. Work up to attaching the straps. Start by bringing the straps up to touch your dog’s neck while she’s eating treats from the muzzle. When your dog does not react to having the straps touch her neck, briefly clip the straps together. Gradually increase the time the straps are clipped together.
5. Have your dog do fun, distracting activities while wearing the muzzle: play, take a short walk, and so forth. Give plenty of treats as positive reinforcement.

 
Resources

• Muzzle Up Project (click the “Muzzle Training” tab for detailed training steps): https://muzzleupproject.com/
• Downloadable brochure on muzzle selection, with helpful fit diagrams: https://www.tierschutzkonform.at/en/folder/
• YouTube videos:
  • Muzzle Training Your Dog (Blue Cross): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BjPpXer8IE
  • Basket Muzzle Training – Flash Class (Maddie’s Fund Education): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCnuZZ2HEsg

 
Reference
1. Arhant C, Schmied-Wagner C, Aigner U, Affenzeller N. Owner reports on use of muzzles and their effects on dogs; an online survey. J Vet Behav. 2021;41:73-81. doi:10.1016/j.jveb.2020.07.006
 
Photo by Annie Spratt on Unsplash

Separation-related behavior problems are fairly common in dogs and also affect cats. Pets with separation-related distress aren’t acting out of spite or mischief when they shred the sofa cushions or urinate on the carpet. These animals are anxious and afraid, and they need help.
 
Separation anxiety is a catchall term that describes stress-related behaviors that happen when an animal is separated from its attachment person.[1] It causes significant distress to the animal and can lead to relinquishment or euthanasia. Animals with separation anxiety sometimes have other anxiety disorders, like noise phobia. Like other types of anxiety, separation anxiety tends to get worse if it’s not treated.
 
Signs
Animals with separation anxiety show distress behaviors only when they’re separated from their people, not at any other time—unless, of course, they also have another source of anxiety.
 
Some signs of emotional distress are obvious:

• Destroying property
• Urinating or defecating in inappropriate places
• Vocalizing (barking/meowing, whining, growling)

 
Other signs are more subtle and may go unnoticed if no one is nearby to see or hear the animal:

• Freezing or withdrawing: seeming depressed, not moving from one spot, hiding
• Pacing or circling
• Panting
• Trembling
• Not eating
• Drooling
• Licking the floor or an object repetitively[2,3]

 
Animals with subtle signs of anxiety are in just as much distress as the ones who destroy the house. Unfortunately, these animals might be less likely to get treatment because their signs are harder to spot.
 
In a survey of cat owners, the most common separation-related behaviors in cats were destruction, vocalization, inappropriate urination, depression, aggression, and agitation.[1]
 
Diagnosis
Many disorders cause the same signs as separation anxiety. Pets with possible separation anxiety should first see a veterinarian to rule out medical conditions like urinary tract infection, diabetes, and neurological disorders.
 
Because of the complexity of anxiety disorders, pets who show distress behaviors often need a full veterinary appointment dedicated to behavior evaluation, not just a quick discussion during a routine wellness visit. A detailed behavior history from the pet’s owner is crucial.
 
The best way to tell whether problem behaviors are caused by separation is by video recording the pet when the owner isn’t home.[4] Video doesn’t require a home surveillance system; a cell phone can be set up to point at the pet while the owner leaves the house for a few minutes. Separation-related behaviors usually start soon after the owner leaves or even while the owner is getting ready to leave. Video can help pin down the cause of the anxiety (for example, maybe the dog doesn’t rip up the pillows until the mail carrier arrives). Because video is the only way to detect subtle signs of distress, it makes sense for all pet owners to record their animals at some point to be sure all is well.
 
Treatment
Managing anxiety in animals usually requires a combination of behavior modification and antianxiety medication. The goal of behavior modification is to teach animals how to relax and calm themselves. Antianxiety medication reduces reactivity so that animals are capable of learning new behaviors, which they can’t do while they’re distressed.
 
Animals with separation anxiety might need more than 1 type of medication: a long-term drug taken daily and a short-acting drug to use in stressful situations or while waiting for the long-term drug to take effect. Antianxiety medications must be prescribed by a veterinarian. Various nonprescription remedies, such as pheromones and nutritional supplements, are also available. Most of these alternative treatments are more expensive than prescription medications and have less evidence to show that they’re effective.[5]
 
Treatment of separation anxiety takes time—think months, not days. The most important early goals are to keep the pet safe and minimize sources of anxiety. These are some steps to take right away while waiting for treatment to take effect:

• Never punish the pet for destroying property or urinating/defecating in the house. Punishment only makes anxiety worse.
• Don’t confine a dog to a crate unless the dog is completely relaxed and happy in the crate. Dogs that are shut in a crate when they’re nervous sometimes develop a fear of confinement. Panicked dogs can seriously hurt themselves trying to get out of a crate.
• Try not to leave a dog with separation anxiety alone until treatment is well underway. Options might include taking the dog to daycare, to stay with friends who work at home, or even to work.
• Use food toys for distraction and positive reinforcement during behavior modification.
• Consider hiring a positive-reinforcement trainer with experience helping anxious dogs.

 
References
1. de Souza Machado D, Oliveira PMB, Machado JC, Ceballos MC, Sant’Anna AC. Identification of separation-related problems in domestic cats: a questionnaire survey. PLoS One. 2020;15(4):e0230999. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0230999
2. Overall KL. Advances in treating dogs who cannot be left alone. VMX 2020 Proceedings: Small Animal & Exotics: Book 1. North American Veterinary Community; 2020:120-123.
3. Sherman BL. Canine separation anxiety: a common behavior problem and welfare concern. 2019 Fetch DVM360 Conference Proceedings. MultiMedia Animal Care LLC; 2019:37-39.
4. Tynes VV. Separation anxiety and the “pandemic puppy”: what lies ahead after lockdown. American Animal Hospital Association. Accessed June 22, 2021. https://www.aaha.org/publications/newstat/articles/2021-06/separation-anxiety-and-the-pandemic-puppy-what-lies-ahead-after-lockdown/
5. Brooks W, Calder C, Bergman L. Separation anxiety: the fear of being alone. Veterinary Partner. June 4, 2020. Updated July 14, 2020. Accessed June 22, 2021. https://veterinarypartner.vin.com/doc/?id=9673053&pid=19239
 
Photo by Mark Zamora on Unsplash

Dog bites are physically and emotionally traumatic and can also have serious consequences for the dog. National Dog Bite Prevention Week, the second full week of April, is a good time to learn more about dog bites.
 
Why do dogs bite?
Dogs bite as an instinctive response to provocation. Even friendly, tolerant dogs can bite under the wrong circumstances. A dog might bite a person in situations like these:

• The dog is afraid, startled, or nervous.
• The dog feels threatened.
• The dog is protecting something (food, a toy, a person, territory, or puppies, for example).
• The dog is in pain.
• The dog doesn’t feel well.
• The dog is fighting with another dog or animal.
• The dog is playing too roughly.
• The dog is (or has been trained to be) aggressive to people.

 
Which dog breeds are likely to bite?
Trick question! Any dog can bite if provoked.
 
Assuming that a dog is aggressive because of its breed is unfair to responsible dog owners and (in the case of breed bans) potentially unsafe for the dog. It’s even more dangerous to assume that a dog won’t bite because it looks like a breed people think of as “friendly.” It’s almost impossible to tell the breed heritage of a mixed-breed dog just by appearance anyway.
 
A dog’s body language and facial expressions are better indicators of bite risk than its (apparent) breed is. These cues can be subtle, but learning to tell if dogs are feeling anxious, afraid, or aggressive can help keep you safe.
 
Who’s at risk of being bitten?
At least half of the people bitten by dogs in the United States each year are children, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association. Older adults are also at higher risk. Most people with dog bites are bitten by their own dog or another dog they’re familiar with.
 
How can I keep myself and my kids from being bitten?
These measures can reduce the risk:

• Never leave a baby or small child alone with a dog. Any dog.
• Teach children to respect dogs’ space: don’t approach dogs that are eating, sleeping, resting inside a crate, or nursing puppies.
• Teach children not to kiss dogs. In most cases they shouldn’t hug dogs either (you’d have to be absolutely sure the dog is OK with being hugged).
• Before petting a dog, ask permission from the dog’s caretaker.
• Always let the dog decide whether to be petted. Let the dog approach you and be sure she has space and opportunity to walk away.
• Don’t reach through a fence or inside a crate to pet a dog.
• Don’t lean down over a dog.

 
What can dog owners do?
Socialize puppies and newly adopted dogs so they’ll be comfortable with different people and new situations. Dogs who are well socialized are less likely to feel nervous or threatened when they encounter new people and unfamiliar environments. Obedience training using positive reinforcement also builds trust between dogs and their owners.
 
Be sure your dog’s rabies vaccination is up to date. Monitor your dog’s health; pain and illness reduce a dog’s tolerance for being touched and handled.
 
Don’t let your dog run free outdoors, and follow your local leash laws. If your dog is nervous around unfamiliar people, be sure he has a place to get away from visitors to your home.
 
More information

• iSpeakDog: http://www.ispeakdog.org/
• The Danger Hidden in Plain Sight in Photos of Dogs and Children (by Zazie Todd, PhD, Companion Animal Psychology): https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2018/08/the-danger-hidden-in-plain-sight-in.html  
• Dog bite prevention (AVMA): https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/pet-owners/dog-bite-prevention
• How to read dog body language (AVMA): https://www.avma.org/resources/pet-owners/how-read-dog-body-language

 
Photo by Ralu Gal