Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) causes chronic inflammation and irritation of the digestive tract. This condition is one of the most common chronic intestinal disorders in cats. IBD in cats is similar to Crohn disease in humans.
 
Cause
In IBD, inflammatory cells accumulate within the walls of the digestive tract. The small intestine is the most common location in cats; the large intestine and stomach can also be affected. The intestinal walls become thickened and can’t absorb nutrients normally. Some cats with IBD also have inflammation of the pancreas and liver, a combination called triaditis.
 
The cause of IBD isn’t known. The disease is probably caused by abnormal immune system function related to intestinal bacteria (which are necessary for normal digestion and immune function), diet, genetics, or other factors. IBD usually affects middle-aged or older cats, although cats of any age can develop the disease.
 
Signs
The signs are similar to those of many other digestive system disorders:

• Vomiting
• Weight loss
• Diarrhea or soft stool
• Decreased appetite (maybe)
• Decreased energy (maybe)

 
Diagnosis
Because so many conditions cause the same signs as IBD, cats with chronic digestive tract problems need a thorough workup. Diagnostic tests are performed to rule out a long list of other possibilities, including intestinal lymphoma (a cancer that is clinically very similar to IBD), parasites, intestinal foreign bodies, bacterial and viral infections, food allergies, other types of cancer, and diseases like hyperthyroidism that cause general illness.
 
Baseline tests include fecal parasite tests, bloodwork, and urinalysis. Additional blood tests are used to assess the function of the pancreas and check for evidence that the small intestine is not absorbing nutrients properly. Imaging (radiography and ultrasonography) is used to evaluate the digestive tract, liver, pancreas, and other organs.
 
The only way to definitely diagnose IBD and distinguish it from intestinal lymphoma is to obtain biopsy samples from the intestine and submit them to a diagnostic laboratory for analysis. Biopsy is performed either with endoscopy (tube inserted through the mouth or anus) or abdominal surgery. Both of these procedures require general anesthesia.
 
Treatment
IBD is managed, not cured. Treatment is tailored to the individual cat, depending on what works best for that cat. Most cats receive a dewormer to eliminate parasites as a possible cause. Some cats’ signs improve with a hypoallergenic diet, so treatment can include several weeks of a food trial with a prescription diet. Antibiotics are sometimes used carefully (they can disrupt the normal intestinal bacteria). Probiotics and prebiotics, which contain beneficial bacteria or nutrients for existing intestinal bacteria, might be included in the treatment plan. Drugs that suppress the immune response, such as the corticosteroid prednisolone, are necessary for some cats.
 
Prognosis
Cats whose disease responds well to treatment can have a good quality of life, although their IBD signs will probably still flare up occasionally. The treatment type and medication doses often need to be adjusted over time.
 
Image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ianlivesey/43270035161/

Home dental care is a crucial part of keeping dogs’ and cats’ mouths healthy. But many pet owners are reluctant to brush their pets' teeth (and brushing is not safe with animals that might bite), so the market is full of products that claim to clean teeth or freshen breath without brushing.
 
Some home dental care products work pretty well, some don’t work at all, and a few pose safety risks for pets. Here’s how to choose dental products for your pet.
 
The Point of Home Dental Care
The goal of cleaning your pet’s teeth at home is to remove plaque. Plaque, a sticky biofilm that contains millions of bacteria, attaches to tooth surfaces. Dental disease in dogs and cats is caused by plaque under and at the edges of the gums, not by tartar (hardened plaque) that you can see on tooth surfaces.
 
Like humans, pets need a combination of professional dental cleanings and home dental care. Home dental products can’t remove tartar or treat dental conditions like periodontal disease. Some products make gum inflammation worse. Tartar and dental diseases require a dental procedure with general anesthesia at a veterinary clinic.
 
When to Use Dental Products
If your pet has smelly breath, visible tartar, bleeding gums, loose teeth, missing teeth, or signs of mouth pain, this is not the time to go shopping for dental products. This is the time to take your pet to the veterinarian and then schedule a dental procedure if your veterinarian recommends it.
 
The time to start home dental care is when it will be effective and not painful for your pet, which means before your pet develops dental disease or after dental disease has been treated. It’s ideal to train puppies and kittens to have their teeth brushed while they’re young so they will build positive associations with dental care. If your pet has dental disease, talk to your veterinarian about the timing of home care; it’s usually best to start about a week after a dental procedure to give the gums time to heal.
 
Active vs Passive Plaque Removal (How Much Work You Have to Do)
Home plaque removal products fall into 2 categories: active and passive. With active plaque removal, the pet owner cleans the teeth with toothbrushes, toothpaste, or dental wipes. Passive plaque removal relies on chewing and doesn’t directly involve the pet owner; these are products like dental diets, treats, and chews.
 
Many of us would love to use only passive dental care because tossing a treat to a dog is easier than brushing the dog’s teeth. (This is why the dental care aisle of the pet store has about 3 hooks for toothbrushes and 20 linear feet of toys and chews.) But passive dental care alone isn’t enough to keep a pet’s mouth healthy. Passive dental care products are best used along with professional cleanings when tooth brushing isn’t appropriate.
 
Active plaque removal products have been shown to be most effective on the front teeth (the teeth the owner can easily reach). Passive plaque removal is generally most effective on the back teeth (the teeth used for chewing). Therefore, your veterinarian might recommend that you use more than one dental care product.
 
Look for Veterinary Oral Health Council Seal
Products that have the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal of acceptance have been shown to be effective for plaque or tartar control. The VOHC doesn’t test products; they review data submitted by product manufacturers. Some products that work, like most toothbrushes, haven’t been submitted to the VOHC, so lack of a seal doesn’t necessarily mean that a product is useless. However, looking for the VOHC seal is a good place to start. You can find lists of accepted products on the VOHC website: https://vohc.org/.
 
Product Types
Toothbrushes and toothpaste:

• Toothbrushes are better than wipes for removing plaque below the gumline.
• Toothbrushes marketed either for animal use or for human use are fine as long as the size is appropriate for the animal’s mouth.
• Bristles should be soft nylon.
• The toothpaste is less important than the brushing action, but animal toothpaste tastes good (to them) and helps animals accept brushing.
• Don’t use human toothpaste; it contains ingredients that animals shouldn’t swallow.
• If your pet has dental disease or might bite, talk to your veterinarian before considering tooth brushing.

 
Dental rinses:

• Many of these don’t really work. Choose rinses with VOHC acceptance.
• Look for chlorhexidine in the active ingredient list. Chlorhexidine is an antiseptic that reduces bacterial growth, and therefore plaque buildup, inside the mouth.
• Rinses containing zinc salts might also be effective.

 
Dental chews, toys, diets, and treats:

• Some can reduce plaque on back teeth (premolars and molars).
• To remove plaque, these products need to touch the sides of the teeth where plaque accumulates. Products that break apart at the biting surface are less effective.
• These products generally do not prevent periodontal disease.
• Dental chews can be a choking hazard and can cause intestinal blockage.
• Products that are chewed and swallowed can cause vomiting and diarrhea.
• Hard chews and toys can cause tooth fractures.
• “Natural” and raw diets haven’t been shown to reduce the risk of periodontal disease and can be contaminated with harmful bacteria.
• Look for products with VOHC acceptance.
• Be sure a chew or toy is soft enough for you to indent with a fingernail.
• Don’t leave your pet alone with a dental chew.

 
Water additives:

• Most of these don’t work. As with other products, look for VOHC acceptance.
• Some contain xylitol, which in high enough concentrations is dangerous for dogs.

 
Sources          

• Bellows J, Berg ML, Dennis S, et al. 2019 AAHA dental care guidelines for dogs and cats. J Am Anim Hosp Assoc. 2019;55(2):49-69. doi:10.5326/JAAHA-MS-6933
• Niemiec B, Gawor J, Nemec A, et al. World Small Animal Veterinary Association global dental guidelines. J Small Anim Pract. 2020;61(7):E36-E161. doi:10.1111/jsap.13132

Image source: https://www.pexels.com/photo/person-using-a-toothbrush-on-dog-with-shower-cap-4588018/

The prostate gland grows and develops in response to testosterone and related male sex hormones. Almost all prostate disease that we see in companion animal practice is in intact (not neutered) dogs.
 
In male animals, neutering means surgical removal of the testicles (castration). Some prostate diseases can affect neutered animals, but these are rare. Most pet male cats in the United States are neutered, so prostate disease is much less common in cats than in dogs.
 
Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia
Because the prostate can keep growing as long as it’s exposed to testosterone, most intact male dogs eventually develop enlargement of the prostate, or benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH). About half of intact male dogs have microscopic evidence of BPH by the time they’re 4 years old; more than 90% have it by the time they’re 8.
 
Most dogs with BPH have no signs of the condition and don’t need treatment. Signs can include blood in the urine, straining to urinate or defecate, and constipation. BPH can reduce the fertility of breeding dogs.
 
In some dogs, an enlarged prostate can be detected with rectal palpation. Ultrasonography is used to measure the prostate and make the diagnosis. Depending on the dog’s signs and test results, samples of prostate fluid or prostate cells might be sent to a laboratory to rule out other prostate disorders.
 
For dogs whose prostate enlargement is causing a problem, the treatment is to eliminate exposure to testosterone, typically with castration. Medications that block the effects of testosterone on the prostate are available for breeding dogs that need to keep their testicles.
 
Prostatitis
Dogs with BPH are prone to develop prostatitis, which is infection of the prostate. Prostatitis is fairly common in intact male dogs and rare in neutered male dogs. The signs of prostatitis depend on whether the condition is acute (has just begun) or chronic (has been going on for a long time):

• Acute prostatitis: pain (might seem like lower back pain or belly pain), fever, decreased energy, decreased appetite, blood in the urine, or straining to urinate or defecate; usually quite painful on rectal palpation
• Chronic prostatitis: possibly no signs at all, less likely to be painful; possibly blood in the urine, dribbling urine or fluid from the penis, or other signs of urinary tract infection

 
Prostatitis is suspected in any intact male dog with compatible signs—especially if rectal palpation is painful—or repeated urinary tract infections. Diagnostic tests include blood tests, urinalysis, ultrasonography of the prostate, and culture of prostate fluid. Some dogs with prostatitis also have abscesses of the prostate, and these can be seen with ultrasonography.
 
The treatment for prostatitis is several weeks of antibiotics along with treatment of the underlying BPH, which means castration for most dogs. Dogs that are ill with acute prostatitis sometimes need to be hospitalized. Abscesses of the prostate might require surgical drainage.
 
Prostate Cancer
Prostate cancer is rare but unfortunately very serious in dogs. The types of prostate cancer that dogs get aren’t linked to testosterone level, so castration does not protect dogs against prostate cancer (it’s actually more common in neutered dogs for unknown reasons). The screening tests and treatments for prostate cancer that are used in men don’t work in dogs. Prostate cancer in dogs tends to be aggressive, is metastatic (spreads through the body), and is usually diagnosed at a late stage. Treatment options other than palliative care are limited; a veterinary oncologist is the best source of advice for an individual dog.
 
Sources
Christensen BW. Canine prostate disease. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract. 2018;48(4):701-719. doi:10.1016/j.cvsm.2018.02.012
Palmieri C, Fonseca-Alves CE, Laufer-Amorim R. A review on canine and feline prostate pathology. Front Vet Sci. 2022;9:881232. doi:10.3389/fvets.2022.881232

Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/black-and-white-short-coated-dog-tKtYHZ13yls

Cases of infectious respiratory disease in dogs have received media attention in the last couple of weeks. We don’t yet know what’s causing these illnesses or whether the reported cases are true outbreaks. However, there is no doubt that dogs can be exposed to a variety of infectious organisms, mostly affecting the respiratory and gastrointestinal (digestive) systems, when they’re around other dogs.
 
Take steps to reduce your dog’s risk if your dog goes to group settings like these:

• Dog daycare
• Boarding facilities
• Dog parks
• Training and puppy socialization classes
• Dog-friendly restaurant patios
• Dog-friendly festivals and other community events
• Dog shows
• Dog sporting events, field trials, and so forth

 
Dogs in animal shelters are at especially high risk because incoming animals are likely to be carrying infections, overcrowding is common, and stress can blunt the immune response.
 
Infectious disease agents—viruses, bacteria, parasites, and so forth—are spread in 5 main ways: by direct contact, through the air, by mouth, by vectors (mosquitoes, ticks, and other animals), and on objects (water bowls, shoes, etc). Dogs in group settings can be exposed through any of these routes.
 
Infectious Respiratory Disease
Canine infectious respiratory disease complex, also called kennel cough, is caused by a wide range of viruses and bacteria, like canine parainfluenza virus, canine influenza virus, and Bordetella bronchiseptica. These infectious agents are carried in respiratory secretions and transmitted by direct contact with an infected dog, through the air, or on contaminated objects. Symptoms include coughing, sneezing, and runny nose. Most dogs have mild illness and recover, but some develop pneumonia. Vaccines are available for some of the agents that cause respiratory disease.
 
Infectious Gastrointestinal Disease
Canine parvovirus is highly contagious among dogs. Infection is often fatal but can be prevented with vaccination. A number of other viruses, bacteria, and protozoa that cause gastrointestinal disease are contagious among dogs. These agents are shed in feces, so transmission is generally by direct contact, by mouth, or on contaminated objects. Symptoms are related to the digestive tract: vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, and so forth.
 
Raw meat is a source of bacterial infection (E coli, Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria, etc). Dogs that eat raw meat can shed these bacteria in their feces without showing any symptoms, and other dogs that have contact with the feces can become infected.
 
Parasites
Intestinal parasites—most often hookworms and roundworms—are common in dogs that aren’t receiving regular parasite prevention medication. These worms are contagious to other dogs (and people) through feces.
 
External parasites like fleas and ticks are vectors that spread infectious diseases to dogs and people. Some of these diseases, like bartonellosis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and Lyme disease, can be quite serious. Dogs can also catch fleas and mange mites directly from other dogs.
 
How to Reduce Your Dog’s Risk

• Have your dog vaccinated according to your veterinarian’s recommendations.
• Use year-round parasite prevention for your dog.
• Don’t take a coughing or sick dog to places where dogs gather.
• Pick up and throw away your dog’s stool.
• If you see reports of canine respiratory disease in your area, consider avoiding dog gatherings and ask your veterinarian about vaccines for respiratory diseases.
• If your dog has an illness or takes a medication that suppresses the immune response, ask your veterinarian if dog gatherings are safe for your dog.
• For puppies whose vaccinations are not yet complete: Socialization is very important. Let your puppy meet other dogs in places that require vaccines or where you know the dogs are vaccinated (puppy classes, friends’ houses, etc). Avoid places that have dogs of unknown vaccine status (dog parks, shops, etc). Keep your puppy away from other dogs’ stool.
• Don’t feed your dog raw meat.

 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/black-and-tan-german-shepherd-and-brown-and-black-german-shepherd-mix-dogs-on-brown-field-Z-lEcNOfWMI

Hepatic lipidosis, or fatty liver syndrome, is a life-threatening condition in cats that stop eating for any reason. It’s most common in overweight or obese cats but can affect cats of any weight. Cats that don’t eat for more than a couple of days need to see a veterinarian without further delay.
 
Causes
When cats don’t eat, their bodies start to break down stored body fat to use for energy. Eventually the level of metabolized fat in the blood is higher than the body can use, and the excess fat is stored in the liver cells. The liver cells become swollen with fat and can no longer function normally, resulting in liver failure. The swollen liver cells also squash the bile ducts within the liver, obstructing the flow of bile (which is needed for normal digestion).
 
Overweight and obese cats are at higher risk than average-weight cats because they have more body fat to metabolize. The tendency to store metabolized fat in liver cells is a quirk of feline liver function, so hepatic lipidosis is much more common in cats than in dogs.
 
Anything that makes a cat stop eating can cause hepatic lipidosis. The cause is usually an underlying disease like a digestive system disorder, diabetes, kidney disease, cancer, or hyperthyroidism. Healthy cats can develop hepatic lipidosis if they don’t eat for some reason, like changing to a new food they don’t like, experiencing a stressor like a new pet or a house move, boarding, getting accidentally locked in a garage, getting lost outdoors, and so forth.
 
Signs
Cats with hepatic lipidosis usually have signs of liver disease like these:

• Refusal to eat
• Weight loss
• Loss of energy
• Yellow tint to the whites of the eyes
• Behavior changes like hiding and not engaging in usual activities
• Possibly vomiting and diarrhea

 
Cats might also have signs related to the underlying disease that caused them to stop eating.
 
Diagnosis
Baseline diagnostic tests (bloodwork and urinalysis) are run to evaluate liver function, assess the cat’s overall condition, and look for an underlying disease. Cats with signs of liver disease usually also have imaging studies like ultrasound of the abdomen. The diagnosis of hepatic lipidosis can be confirmed with liver biopsy, although not all cats need this step.
 
Treatment
Cats with hepatic lipidosis are typically hospitalized for at least a few days. Treatment includes intravenous fluids, correction of electrolyte imbalances and anemia (which can happen with liver disease), treatment for nausea and vomiting, nutritional support, and if possible, treatment of the underlying disease.
 
Nutritional support is crucial for cats with hepatic lipidosis so their bodies will stop metabolizing fat for energy. Because most cats with this condition don’t eat on their own, they are fed through a tube at first. Feeding tubes are placed through the nose (cats tolerate this better than you would think) or surgically placed through the skin. Some cats need to continue tube feeding for weeks. These cats receive surgically placed feeding tubes designed for long-term use, and their owners must continue the tube feedings at home.
 
Prognosis
Most cats that receive prompt intensive care (including early tube feeding) recover from hepatic lipidosis. The long-term prognosis depends on whether the underlying disease is treatable.
 
Prevention
Keeping a cat at a lean body condition reduces the risk of hepatic lipidosis. For cats that stop eating, early intervention to get nutrition into the cat—feeding something the cat will eat, using an appetite stimulant medication, or starting tube feedings—can help prevent hepatic lipidosis. Cats should never be force fed, though. Placing food directly into a cat’s mouth by hand or through a syringe can cause a cat to avoid that food in the future and be even less likely to eat on its own.
 
Image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/139162177@N05/46079745404/

Palliative care and end-of-life hospice care for animals focus on improving quality of life, not curing disease. The decision to begin these types of care can be difficult for pet owners. Whether palliative care is right for an individual pet depends on the needs and capacity of the family as well as the medical needs of the animal, so the decision is specific to each pet and each caregiver.
 
Animals that are candidates for palliative and hospice care typically fall into one of these categories:

• Have a terminal disease
• Have a progressive chronic condition
• Have a chronic disability
• Are advanced in age and near the end of life

 
Palliative care is treatment that minimizes an animal’s pain and distress (without curing disease) at any time, not just at the end of life. The term hospice care more specifically refers to care near the end of life.
 
Hospice care generally includes palliative care for the animal and support for the human caregivers. The biggest difference between human and animal hospice care is that euthanasia is a legal and humane option for animals. Hospice-assisted natural death is possible for some animals. However, choosing to let pets “die on their own” without any relief of pain and distress is unethical.
 
Some veterinarians are specialists in palliative and hospice care. End-of-life care for animals might involve a team including veterinary staff members, specialists (like grief counselors) to support the humans, and the pet owners themselves.
 
Tips for Pet Owners
The American Association of Feline Practitioners recently published hospice and palliative care guidelines for cats and has very helpful suggestions for pet owners (not just cat owners). Here’s a summary; for more details, see the Cat Friendly Homes website.

• Have an honest discussion with your veterinarian. Talk about your goals for your pet’s care, what you’re able to provide (financially, emotionally, and physically), and how to make the end-of-life decision. The treatment plan can—and should—be tailored to your preferences and abilities.
• Learn about your pet’s condition, including the prognosis and the type of care your pet will need.
• Make a care plan that includes your pet’s physical, emotional, and social needs.
• Learn how to care for your pet. You might need to modify your pet’s environment (with ramps, nonslip mats, litter box cutouts for easy access, etc). Learn how to give your pet medication. Tell your veterinarian if you’re having trouble giving your pet medication.
• Acknowledge your grief. Feelings of grief can start before your pet dies and are completely normal. Seek help if you need it.

 
If you know your pet is nearing the end of life, it can be very helpful to plan in advance for your pet’s death. Options might include euthanasia at your veterinarian’s office, home euthanasia (if available in your location), or hospice-assisted natural death (if appropriate and available for your pet). Ask about the euthanasia procedure and the cremation and burial options.
 
For More Information

• End-of-Life Care Guidelines (American Animal Hospital Association): https://www.aaha.org/your-pet/pet-owner-education/aaha-guidelines-for-pet-owners/end-of-life-care/
• Hospice and Palliative Care for Your Cat (American Association of Feline Practitioners): https://catfriendly.com/life-stages/hospice/

 
Image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cogdog/25256183337/

The differences between heartworm prevention products can be confusing. Some products protect pets from other parasites in addition to heartworms. Your veterinarian can recommend products for your own pet according to risk factors like your pet’s lifestyle, environment, and geographic location.
 
Heartworm preventives should be given all year round. If your pet’s heartworm preventive doesn’t also cover for fleas and intestinal parasites like roundworms and hookworms, your pet should receive a second product or have regular parasite tests (your veterinarian can advise you about this).
 
Heartworm preventives labeled for dogs and cats are available in the United States only by prescription. Some products that target fleas, ticks, and intestinal parasites are prescription products; others can be sold without a prescription. If you find a flea/tick product or a dewormer for dogs or cats that can be bought without a prescription, it won’t protect your pet against heartworm infection (unless it’s being sold illegally or possibly from outside the United States).
 
These are the parasites most often covered by parasite preventives for dogs and cats:

• Heartworms: potentially deadly for dogs, cats, and ferrets
• Fleas and ticks: carry diseases that are dangerous to humans and animals
• Roundworms and hookworms: contagious to humans, so prevention is an important public health issue
• Whipworms: contagious to dogs
• Tapeworms: spread to dogs and cats by fleas or rodents

 
Heartworm Preventives
New products come on the market regularly. Products within the same brand line that have different ingredients (for different parasite coverage) tend to have nearly identical names, so check labels carefully.
 
The following is a summary of currently available heartworm preventives for dogs and cats, listed by route of administration and active ingredient. This list is from the American Heartworm Society website, which shows the product names and their parasite coverage in an easy-to-read chart.
 
For an updated list of heartworm preventives for dogs, cats, and ferrets, please see the American Heartworm Society website: https://www.heartwormsociety.org/preventives
 
Products for Dogs
Tablets or chews given by mouth once a month:

• Ivermectin: Heartgard, Iverhart, Tri-Heart. For dogs, products containing only ivermectin protect only against heartworms. Some of the products in these brand lines also contain ingredients for hookworm, roundworm, and tapeworm protection.
• Milbemycin: Interceptor, MilbeGuard, Sentinel, Trifexis. Milbemycin by itself covers for heartworms, hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms. Some of these products also include an ingredient that kills fleas.
• Moxidectin: Simparica Trio, Nexgard Plus. These 2 products contain moxidectin (heartworm protection) in addition to other ingredients for flea, tick, hookworm, and roundworm protection. Plain Simparica (not Trio) and plain Nexgard (not Plus) don’t contain moxidectin and are not heartworm preventives; they are flea and tick products.

 
Injectable product given every 6 or 12 months:

• Moxidectin: ProHeart 6 (every 6 months), ProHeart 12 (every 12 months). These products provide continuous heartworm protection without owners having to give their dogs a monthly dose. They don’t prevent hookworm or roundworm infection and they don’t kill fleas or ticks.

 
Topical products applied to the skin once a month:

• Moxidectin: Advantage Multi, Imoxi, Parasedge Multi, Midamox. These products contain moxidectin plus another ingredient and cover for heartworms, fleas, hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms. There are several Advantage products; Advantage Multi is currently the only one with heartworm protection.
• Selamectin: Revolution, Paradyne, Senergy, Selarid, Revolt. In dogs, selamectin protects against heartworms, fleas, and ticks.

 
Products for Cats
Tablets or chews given by mouth once a month:

• Ivermectin: Heartgard. Heartgard for cats is labeled for both heartworm and hookworm protection.
• Milbemycin: Interceptor, MilbeGuard. These products provide heartworm, hookworm, and roundworm protection.

 
Topical products applied to the skin once a month (except Bravecto Plus):

• Moxidectin: Advantage Multi, Imoxi, Parasedge Multi, Midamox, Bravecto Plus. These products give heartworm, flea, hookworm, roundworm, and (depending on the product) tick protection. Bravecto Plus is applied every 2 months.
• Eprinomectin: Centragard, Nexgard Combo. These products give heartworm, hookworm, roundworm, and tapeworm protection. Nexgard Combo also covers for fleas and ticks.
• Selamectin: Revolution, Paradyne, Senergy, Selarid, Revolt. In cats, selamectin protects against heartworms, fleas, hookworms, and roundworms; some of these products also have an ingredient that kills ticks.

 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/rls2bfqYh8E

Most dogs and cats cope very well with vision loss. They rely more on the sense of smell than on the sense of sight. Blind animals can have happy, comfortable lives with some help from their owners.
 
Pets with gradual vision loss often adapt so well that their owners don’t realize their pets are having trouble seeing until they’re completely blind and bumping into things. Animals with sudden blindness can take longer to adjust.
 
Safety and Navigation
Use gates and other barriers to block a blind animal’s access to stairs, swimming pools, fireplaces, and other dangers. Use foam cushioning (child safety equipment) to pad furniture corners. Keep the floor clear of trip hazards like toys and laundry.
 
Keep blind animals in a crate or other secure space whenever they’re unsupervised, at least while they’re adjusting to their loss of vision. This space can also become a safe, familiar retreat.
 
Blind animals can have a hard time navigating stairs, especially descending. Be patient and use a harness and treats to show blind dogs how to manage stairs. Consider covering short runs of steps with a ramp. Nonslip strips applied to stair treads might make a blind pet feel more secure. Dogs and cats that sleep on furniture might need a ramp or steps so they don’t have to jump up and down.
 
To help blind pets learn their way around the house, don’t pick them up and carry them; let them walk on their own. Different floor surfaces (mats or rugs) can help them identify specific areas like doorways and the location of food and water bowls. A radio left on at all times in one room and scents applied to furniture at the pet’s head height can also help orient them inside the house.
 
Face whiskers help animals feel obstacles, so don’t have their whiskers trimmed at grooming appointments. Vests with circular extensions around the head or chest (halo vests) are available for blind dogs who keep bumping into things.
 
Exercise and Mental Health
Blind animals need exercise just like every other animal, but they shouldn’t go outdoors unsupervised. Even a small fenced yard can have holes and fallen branches that would pose a risk to a blind pet. If you don’t have a fenced yard that’s safe and familiar to your dog, keep your dog on a leash.
 
When walking your blind dog, attach the leash to a harness instead of a collar in case you need to pull your dog away from a hazard. Teach your dog verbal cues like “left,” “right,” and “stop.” An unexpected touch can frighten a blind dog, so warn people who approach that your dog is blind. Consider using a dog vest with the words “Blind dog” or “Do not pet.” Be very careful if another dog approaches while you’re walking your dog. A blind dog can’t read other dogs’ body language. If you let your dog interact with another dog, be sure that the other dog is friendly and that your dog is comfortable with the interaction.
 
Provide toys that stimulate senses other than sight. Use toys with bells (with supervision—bells can be a choking hazard), catnip toys for cats, and tracking games for dogs who enjoy following scents. For some animals, playing contact games like tug of war might be easier than chasing toys by sound or scent.
 
Some animals experience anxiety while they’re adjusting to vision loss. Keep your pet’s routine consistent, stay positive around your pet, and provide a safe retreat like a crate. Behavior changes like hiding, reluctance to walk or play, growling, barking, and snapping can all be signs of anxiety. Contact your veterinarian if your pet has any of these changes or seems to be having trouble adapting. Some pets benefit from short-term or long-term prescription anxiety medications.
 
For more ideas, see the ACVO Vision for Animals Foundation website: https://www.visionforanimals.org/coping-with-a-blind-dog/
 
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/SEX4KAz9ExQ

Treats are fun to give and are useful for training. But in large enough quantities, treats and table food can contribute to weight gain and throw off the nutritional balance of a pet’s diet.
 
Keep these points in mind:

• Treats should account for less than 10% of your pet’s daily calories.
• At least 90% of the calorie intake should come from a food that’s complete and balanced for your pet’s species and life stage.
• If your veterinarian says your pet needs to lose weight, don’t take it personally. Obesity is very common in pet dogs and cats.

 
If you live with other people, you probably aren’t the only person giving your pet treats. Talk to your veterinarian about a realistic nutrition plan that will work for your household, especially if your pet is overweight or has special nutritional needs.
 
Calories
The calories in treats and table food can add up quickly for a small animal that needs only a fraction of the calories that a person eats. To find out how much your pet should eat in a day, start with your pet food manufacturer’s feeding guide or use a calorie calculator. Your pet’s individual requirement might be higher or lower than the estimate from a feeding guide or calorie calculator, so keep an eye on your pet’s body condition and adjust the amount fed as needed.
 
Here’s how to find your pet’s daily calorie requirement:

• Use a pet calorie calculator like this one by Pet Nutrition Alliance: https://petnutritionalliance.org/resources/calorie-calculator
• The daily calorie calculation is the total for a whole day. If you feed 2 meals per day, divide this number in half to find the number of calories to feed at each meal.
• Look on the pet food packaging or manufacturer’s website to find the number of calories per cup or can. Calories will be reported as kilocalories (kcal). Enter this number in the calculator to find how many cups/cans to feed in a day. If you feed 2 meals per day, feed half this number of cups/cans at each meal.
• “Cup” means a kitchen measuring cup (8 fl oz).
• The daily treat allotment is 10% of the daily calories.

 
Nutritional Balance
A balanced diet has the right proportions of vitamins, minerals, protein, and fat for an animal’s species and life stage. For example, cats need a higher percentage of dietary protein than dogs do, and growing animals need more calcium than adults do.
 
Pet foods sold as complete and balanced diets must meet nutrient requirements set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). The packaging will include a statement that the product meets AAFCO standards for a certain species and life stage.
 
Products sold as treats don’t have to meet these nutrient requirements. As long as the treats make up less than 10% of the daily calorie intake, their nutrient content isn’t that important. But if treats account for more than 10% of the daily calories, they can unbalance the diet.
 
Treat Ideas
These treats don’t contain many calories and are safe for healthy dogs and cats. If your pet has a food allergy or a medical condition, ask your veterinarian about appropriate treats.

• Small pieces of your pet’s main diet (subtracted from the total daily ration)
• Vegetables: cucumbers, carrots, green beans, celery, squash, etc
• Fruit: apples, bananas, watermelon, blueberries, etc
• Small piece of hardboiled egg, no salt
• Small piece of cooked chicken or turkey with no skin, fat, bones, or salt
• Spoonful of plain nonfat yogurt

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Many dogs and cats need eye medication at some point in their lives. Pets with chronic eye diseases might need more than 1 eye medication given multiple times a day for years. With practice and positive reinforcement, giving eye medication to an animal can be quick and drama free.
 
If your pet doesn’t need eye medication yet, you can train them for it in advance. This training will reduce your pet’s stress when they need medication later on. Go through the body positioning and head handling steps listed below and give yummy treats at each stage. Large dogs can be trained to rest their head on your knee to receive eye medication.
 
Handling Eye Medication

• Some medications need to be shaken before use; check the label.
• Wash your hands before handling eye medication.
• Don’t touch the tip of the bottle/tube with your hands.
• Don’t let the tip of the bottle/tube touch your pet’s eye.

 
Giving Multiple Medications

• If you need to give more than 1 medication at a time, wait 5 to 10 minutes between medications.
• Give drops first, ointments last.
• Keep track of which cap goes with which medication container so you can replace the caps on the right containers.

 
Preparation

• Have treats ready, especially if your pet is new to eye medication.
• Choose a location where you can comfortably stand (or sit) behind or beside your pet. Your pet can be on the floor, your lap, or a table as long as you can easily reach their head and they can’t back away from you.
• If your pet is wiggly, try placing them on an unfamiliar surface like a table.

 
Administering the Medication

• Position yourself behind or beside your pet. To avoid intimidating your pet, don’t lean down over their head.
• Uncap the bottle/tube and hold it in your dominant hand (if you’re right-handed, hold the medication in your right hand). Hold the bottle/tube between your thumb and forefinger with the tip pointing toward your pinky, like you’d hold a dropper.
• Place your other hand under your pet’s chin and tilt their nose slightly upward.
• Bring the hand holding the medication toward the eye, ideally approaching from below and to the side so it won’t look (to your pet) like you’re about to poke them in the eye.
• Place the pinky side of your medication-holding hand on your pet’s head just above the eye.
• Use the side of your medication-holding hand to gently stretch the skin above the eye upward; this will pull the upper eyelid slightly open.
• At the same time, use the thumb of your chin-supporting hand to gently pull down the lower eyelid, if you can reach it.
• For eye drops (liquids): Quickly drop a single drop onto the surface of the eye. It’s okay if it lands on the inside of the lower lid. If the drop lands on haired skin or if your pet closes the eye before the drop lands, try again.
• For ointments: Quickly squeeze out a small strip about the length of a grain of rice and let it drape down onto the surface of the eye or the inside of the lower eyelid. Wait until your pet blinks. Blinking will spread the ointment across the surface of the eye; there’s no need for you to rub the eye.
• Give your pet a yummy treat and tell them how wonderful and clever they are.

 
Watch for Unwanted Effects
Some eye medications are a little uncomfortable for the first few applications. It’s common for animals to blink more than usual or squint for a minute or two after an eye medication is applied. If your pet’s eye seems uncomfortable for more than a few minutes or if this response continues for more than the first few doses, contact your veterinarian.
 
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